Simply beautiful
I decided to join Jan on a trip to an Orang Asal (a.k.a Orang Asli) Semai village in Pos Betau in Pahang. Jan obviously was in search of another elusive waterfall in Malaysia while I was more than happy to be part of the recee trip. This will be my first real visit to a Semai village and I was also hoping to find some new sites that I can use for work. As it turns out, this trip had so much more to offer than just waterfalls and village life.
The meet up point was Jan’s place. There we met with our Orang Asal guide Rahim. A very joyful and enthusiastic person I must say. Later, Ms Joe Yeap from the famous Waterfall Survivors group caught up with us, apologizing that she can’t make it but thanked us profusely for helping her bring some donations her group has collected for the villagers.
It was a long journey indeed. Passed Bentong, we only stopped at Raub to buy some fresh food for ourselves and the Semai family that will be hosting us.
The Raub wet market where we got our fresh food
As we continued on our journey, the music from the car radio started to fade away…leaving only noises and hissing that ironically was my only companion throughout the journey (Rahim was in Jan’s car). Coming near to Sg Koyan (where we were to turn off), we noticed more and more lorries carting away huge timber, probably to the saw mill. I later found out that more and more of the jungle in the area has been logged. Well, what else is new?
Driving into the Semai’s village
Rahim’s village consist about 400 villagers with most working in rubber plantations. Their wooden houses are simple and electricity is available from 7am to about 7pm only. They moved to this location from remote parts of the jungle as a result of the Malaysian government persuasion. A difficult discussion that is best left to personal opinions.
Rahim’s house in the village
It was a hot day indeed. I was glad when Rahim suggested that we go for a swim in the Jelai river located just a 2 minutes’ walk away from his house. On the way there, we pass by a wooden structure house. It looked partially built yet somehow left abandoned. I asked Rahim and he told me the house belongs to his late grandfather. The villagers are tearing down the house bit by bit as advised by the village shaman or bomoh. Seems that there have been 6 deaths in the house alone and it’s a bad omen to continue living in it. I took a picture and hurried off to the river.
There has been 6 deaths in this house and the local Semais have decided to tear it down
Oh…the river is God sent. The water was crystal clear and refreshingly cold. As we were getting ready to jump in, we soon realized we were not the only ones hoping to enjoy the river. Almost immediately, a group of Semai children decided to join us for a swim. While we changed, the kids had no qualms stripping for a swim…like how they have been for as long as they can remember. We were apprehensive at first but Rahim assured us it was okay to join the kids for a swim.
Natural acrobats, the Semai kids are obviously comfortable with the world the live in
A really beautiful river
On the river banks opposite, Rahim showed us some of the hill padi planted by the locals.
The river banks were planted with some hill padi
Later in the evening, we decided to start distributing some of the donations organised by Ms Joe Yeap for the locals. There were enough bag of goodies to fill both our cars. There were some really happy faces that evening. A big thank you to Joe Yeap and her friends at Waterfall Survivors for organizing the collection of donations.
A Semai boy giving a hand carrying some of the donations
Later in the evening, we met up with the village’s Tok Batin followed by a scrumptious dinner meal prepared by Rahim’s sister in law using all the raw food stuff we purchased earlier at Raub.
Having dinner with Rahim’s family
Later in the evening, while chatting in the living room, we had a visitor, one I have not seen for ages. I remembered growing up in Baling town surrounded with such creatures at night, especially when watching TV. Ahh…brings back memories really.
The familiar visitor
It’s only been day one at this Orang Asal Semai’s village and already I feel that I have gone back in time, re-visit my childhood that’s filled with little care in the world. Aaaah…those were the days…
Continue reading
Part II – The remote Kampung Kenip
Part III – The walk to Kenip Falls
Part IV – The waterfalls at Kenip
Final part – Hill rice, blow pipe & traditional fire starter of the Semais
Excellent report! Your style of writing brings back vividly the memories of this trip.
Thanks Jan! The place is beautiful and spending time with them beautiful people makes it a gem of place.
great stuff but why you never invite me on these trips? dude, that’s just so wrong! Apa ini?
Hi Jeremy…the trip was Jan’s idea. I also am a ‘guest’ during that trip! Email inbound!
The stream looks gorgeous!
U shouldve asked the oldies there during the 80s….curfews and long range patrols persuing from Cameron Highlands all the way past Pos Betau and late evening boat rides from Kuala Medang to Post Betau.
Wonder what happened to my dear good friend Major Gan of the Army Intel?
Yes…it is!!
Hey ForestGump…I always look forward to your comments. They are always interesting with a little bit more of background on the area I have visited. Now I know there is a possibility to CH from Pos Betau, though I suppose it is going to be extremely hard. Major Gan? Okay, the next time around if I go for a visit, I will ask for you
Just got back from a wild trek cum anti poaching around Tasik Kenyir. Lovely clear water river with rapids and cascading waters…saw wild elephants bathing in the river, found and touched still warm tiger pooh
and caught a python of en estimated 15 feet long for closer inspection and then released back in2 the wilds.
Will be going there again end April till 1st May…deeper and hopefully would be able to, at least, hear wild tiger roars as well as have productive kodak moments with digital camera traps!!!!
Hi ForestGump…man…I wish you’d hire me as your chef or something. I love Kenyir, especially Tembat area. Heard they plan to dam that area. What a shame. Do share with is your adventures. WOuld love to hear them. Any chance you’d share some pictures, would be great! Even if it’s tiger poop!!!!
Tembat’s under logging now as the dam will be the next thing to be built and already about 30 wild eles are roaming into the territory where Id be hiking soon – hence for the camera traps.
Plan to do another Pertuang in late May..a jungle survival mid May and a few others B4 I head for the UK end July for 7 weeks.
End September running a 10 days cross country jungle raid with a group of europeans…
Sad to hear about the jumbos. Hope they don get into too much trouble.
Wow…you are a busy man. Hmmm…the jungle raid sounds interesting.
an eye-opening article, I am from that part of the country and pass through the junction to pos betau on my way to kuala medang, but never make a point to visit betau.
It is now on next destination.
Yup…nice place indeed. Its one of those places that we’d never think about stopping yet the beauty of it is mesmerizing.
its going to be spoilt soon the once the road from Bertam in Cameron Highlands has been fully opened up…habislah….
Hey ForestGump…glad to see you again. I know what you mean. I don’t think if any of us can do anything about it unfortunately. Sigh.,…but at least me and you…we get to see it before it is all gone. But I am sure you have seen MORE than what I have
cantik..saya akan pergi mengajar di Sekolah Kebangsaan Betau.Gambar-gambar anda ini sangat membantu saya. TQ.
Saya gembira gambar-gambar tu dapat membantu you dalam persedian pergi mengajar disana.
Terima kasih kerana mengambil cabaran untuk pergi mengajar kanak-kanak dari kawasan itu.