I was introduced to a local Bidayuh guide Danney Tan from Kuching somewhat early this year. A few months later, we hatched the idea of going camping with the Ibans from the longhouses of Batang Ai. Yes, I have [...]]]>

My second trip to the longhouses of Batang Ai, this time to experience its jungle

I was introduced to a local Bidayuh guide Danney Tan from Kuching somewhat early this year. A few months later, we hatched the idea of going camping with the Ibans from the longhouses of Batang Ai. Yes, I have visited the longhouses of Batang Ai before but I knew I had to go back there to see myself the bushcraft traditions of this famous tribe of Borneo.

There were 6 of us in the group. A small manageable groups with close friends from various backgrounds. I am very happy that they were able to make it. A trip to Kuching seems a bit strange without an overnight stay at Beds Guesthouse. This cosy, friendly place has since become like our home in Kuching. The following morning was an early start, with a quick stop at Serian market to buy fresh provisions.

The wet market in Serian is a popular place even for tourist, many things to see and eat

The market is a local produce paradise. Literally. There are many things at the market that many of us have never seen before. Then there are things sold that we’d normally prefer to see in the wild.

A Keranji wood bowl and rolls of Terap on sale

(Left) Keluak- a poisonous fruit if not prepared properly before consumption and Siput Gondang (Golden Apple Snails)

Take a guess...

It took us some many hours to travel from Kuching to the Batang Ai Jetty. A hydroelectric dam and a water reservoir, the dam had displaced old Iban villages, with some relocated to areas (out of Batang Ai) nearby while some villagers relocated their long houses to higher grounds. In 1991, the area was gazetted as a national park.

As we got to the jetty, the first thing that strike me was the water level. It has gone down significantly and can be seen by the naked soil above the waterline.

The 'orangy' color of soil exposed above the water line...at least 1.5meter lower than the normal waterline

This trip to Batang Ai was a recee trip for us. We needed to see more of Batang Ai and what it has to offer, and hopefully we can in the future offer trips, or at the very least promote the place to others. A rustic and authentic place with friendly and knowledgeable Ibans.

Recently, our nature guide friend Mr John Chan invited us to join him and some close friends to the village of Chuweh in Temenggor. A village of Orang Asal Jahai, this was my second visit to the island. Having been there before, we explored [...]]]>

Our fur-kid Sox enjoying his visit to the Orang Asal village

Recently, our nature guide friend Mr John Chan invited us to join him and some close friends to the village of Chuweh in Temenggor. A village of Orang Asal Jahai, this was my second visit to the island. Having been there before, we explored the possibility of having Sox on the trip. John made a few calls to the Jahais and after a few days of deliberation, they said yes. So…it was a weekend away with our fur-kid Sox to Temenggor, staying in bamboo huts and swimming in the lake. This is my second visit to Chuweh.

Our Sox ever ready for adventure.

There were 3 cars in total. We departed for Temenggor close to 6am because we knew it was going to be a long drive…plus our Pajero don’t drive fast. Along the way, we made several stops to stretch ourselves. Eventually, we made it to Temenggor. The first time both Meun and myself visited Temenggor was some years back with a retired army Colonel. Its been a while and things have changed a bit. The run down resort back then has been reconditioned but funnily enough, the only Petronas fuel station on the Banding island has been closed down.

It was a hot day. As soon as the Orang Asal boat arrives, we packed our stuff, strapped on the PFDs (Sox has one too) and sped off to Chuweh. It was almost a good 1 hour boat ride.

Sox in her PFD getting her first ever boat ride

It was a tough decision to bring Sox along the trip. I know the villagers have dogs and some village dogs can be rather ‘hostile’ to outside dogs. We were lucky this time around coz the village dogs have all been transferred to another village. Chuweh has been receiving visits from tourists and the villagers decided that perhaps it is better to keep the dogs in another village and not risk unpleasant incidences. The first thing Meun did when we got to the village was to introduce Sox to the kids. The kids naturally were hesitant in the beginning. After much persuasion, they started to warm up with Sox and in the evening, Sox was already placing chase with the kids.

Meun introducing Sox to the children of Chuweh

Well, Sox is an angel as far as we can tell. She doesn’t realize she is a dog we reckon. Sox thinks she is one of us ‘humans’. We braved ourselves by letting Sox roam free. I guess it would be the closest feeling ever to seeing a human baby walk on its own for the very first time. There was that breathless moment, followed by drumming heartbeat, hands and legs ready to chase after her.

But it turns out better than I expected. Meun was confident all the while that Sox would be okay. I think Sox did better than ok. She stayed within eye contact from us, taking time to roam the entire village, sniffing her new surrounding. Soon, she was running around, her usual ‘chase me game’. After a few hours of just wondering around, Sox finally calmed down, feeling more confident that we weren’t gonna ‘leash’ her on…she came into the hut for a drink and some rest.

Sox rested and spent every ounce of her energy exploring the entire Chuweh villag

Well, Sox did everything we did. She went on boat rides, jungle treks, ate human food and slept in the same hut. The only thing we tried together to do that she wasn’t really keen on way swimming! Despite the expensive PFD we invested for her, she still has water phobia. Something we reckon Sox will be able to overcome with more ‘exposure’ to swimming.

NOTE: Please note that the villagers of Chuweh DO NOT accept dogs unless with prior notice. This is because their village too have dogs and can sometimes be rather hostile to new dogs.

A ride in a narrow Iban long boat on the Batang Ai is really something. I guess our group was luck (in a way) as the lake was choppy when we pushed off from the jetty. The boatman reassured us that it is [...]]]>

The engine and the name of the loang boat we were on

A ride in a narrow Iban long boat on the Batang Ai is really something. I guess our group was luck (in a way) as the lake was choppy when we pushed off from the jetty. The boatman reassured us that it is only choppy half the way (which is true) as the open lake is prone to strong winds at time.

The Iban long boats at Batang Ai is narrow. It only seats a person along the boat with barely much space at the side (okay…I am big as well). We had about 4 or 5 persons on each boat, including the boatman at the rear and a ‘watcher’ at the front. I suppose the ‘watcher’ looks out for drift wood or any object that the boat may ram into. And of course we have our personal gears as well. Yup…it was quite a full boat.

One of the boats at Batang Ai

One thing I noted about the boat. Probably because of its long, stream line shape, the boat really (I mean really) moves. The slightest twitch I make with my right leg, I can feel the boat tilt a little bit to the right. I thought I was paranoid, so I tried again…and again it felt the boat shifted a little bit to the right. So…heck…try it on the left and the I can feel the boat shifting to the left. Suddenly, the ‘watcher’ dude in front turn around and look at us ‘aliens’. Okay…I stopped twitching. I sat still…really still.

The 'watcher' keeping an eye on the water ahead of the boat

By the time we got to our destination, it was almost 45 minutes after departure from the jetty. It was already getting dark and true enough, there’s no electricity in the village (the generator set was broken and has been so for many years). We were told to wait as the villagers were getting ready to greet us. Now…the adventure begins…

I was in Kuching after a second visit to Semban village when a few of us decided perhaps to squeeze in a short visit to a authentic Iban Long house in Batang Ai, Sarawak. I have heard about long houses but this would be my first [...]]]>

A view from the jetty at Batang Ai, Sarawak

I was in Kuching after a second visit to Semban village when a few of us decided perhaps to squeeze in a short visit to a authentic Iban Long house in Batang Ai, Sarawak. I have heard about long houses but this would be my first time visiting one. Our guide guranteed us this is an authentic long house, as authentic as one will ever find. “Okay…wow me I told the guide”. Nothing like Anna Rais longhouse it seems.

It took us several hours drive from Kuching to the jetty at Batang Ai. Along the way, we stopped at a few places for lunch and toilet breaks. One of the stop overs that I really liked was a place called Lachau. A row of shop houses with local farmers trading local farm produce at the sidewalks. It had a sense of rusticity and romanticism to it. An atmosphere of a lonely, sleepy town.

One of the coffee shops at our stop at Lachau

Some of the traders along the walkway at Lachau

Ikan Puyu being sold in water bottles

There are several shops in Lachau stop area that sells parangs and other sorts of ‘uncommon’ things. Naturally, their parangs caught my eyes. For as cheap as RM40, one can buy a massive parang, complete with handle and sheath. These parangs were hung on the wall, together with other ‘touristy’ items like woven baskets, wooden walking poles, gongs and drums. I had a look at the parangs and I have to say that while they look absolutely nice from a distance, upon close inspection…they are really made of cheap, not trustworthy materials.

One of the shops with all sorts of parangs for sale...but most are cheap copies from Indonesia unfortunately

Checked with my guide and he  told me that the parangs, in fact, most of the items on sale in the area are mass produced in neighboring country. It is an industry there to produce such things and then being sold in Sarawak. Well, as far as parang goes, it would probably look nice on a tourist wall at home but I hope they don’t decide to hang it at the waist for a walk in the jungle. Oh boy…will they be disappointed.

We finally made it to the Batang Ai jetty. The Batang Ai reminded me of Kenyir but more ‘volatile’ version of it. I was told that it is ’seasonal’ but when we arrived, the waters were choppy and the wind was relentless. How bad can it be? Well, bad enough to capsize one of the local long boats there!

The capsized long boat after it has been recovered

It took the boatman a good hour to get his outboard engine working. After that, we loaded our stuff onto 2 boats and started our 45 minutes long boat ride to Kampung Ukom in Batang Ai.

It was a pleasant and overwhelmingly beautiful boat ride

All is go on second day kayaking on Sungai Perak. After breakfast, there is this busy silence of prepping kayaks & canoe, donning gear and packing on supplies going on. We plan to paddle towards Tasik Raban, Chenderoh and its surrounding areas. Within half an hour after breakfast, we [...]]]>

Day 2 is kayaking/ paddling day!

All is go on second day kayaking on Sungai Perak. After breakfast, there is this busy silence of prepping kayaks & canoe, donning gear and packing on supplies going on. We plan to paddle towards Tasik Raban, Chenderoh and its surrounding areas. Within half an hour after breakfast, we were all in our boats, ready to kayak away!

The place we paddled along the Perak river did not have strong currents. This could probably be due to the fact that further down the river, there is the Chenderoh dam. The smallest and oldest hydro dam in Malaysia.

Jim and son getting the canoe into the river

Soon, we were all paddling down Sungai Perak

It was an excellent day to be paddling. Sungai Perak was particularly peaceful and calm that morning. The shade from the over shadowing rain clouds was much welcomed, despite the prospect of rain. We had water, food and some maps printed from google earth, so we were ready for a day’s paddle.

Along the way, we did a few stops. On islands and river banks as well. Mostly to rest and have a look around. The river is beautiful and so are the lakes there. It reminded us a lot of Lake Kenyir and Lake Banding. Though not as remote as the Pedu Lake paddle I did with Nadir months back, this river has its own charm and uniqueness nevertheless.

Our boats at one of the stops along the river

Myself paddling past some Pandanus- pic by Meun

We paddled a total of about 10km that day. The weather was fine except towards the end of the day when it started to pour. But hey, a pour is better than a hot hot sun. At the end of the day, besides the rain, I’d say this first paddling trip at Sungai River was a real eye opener. So much to do, see and experience here. The river beckons to be explored. And so it shall be…

More on our kayak trip to Sungai Perak:

• Yau Kee Chicken at Kampar
• Tasting the fresh water kepah clams
• Wild water buffalo on Sungai Perak
• Lotus lagoon along Sungai Perak

For more posts on kayaking in Malaysia, click on the below links:

• Kayaking the Ulu Muda, Kedah
• Batu Dam paddling

Here are some pictures of Ulu Muda when I went kayaking there with Nadir. While the water levels have risen considerably, the lake is stunningly beautiful. Nadir, who was at the lake a few months back before the rainy season started was [...]]]>

Such a nice day for paddling…right up until we arrive at the campsite

Here are some pictures of Ulu Muda when I went kayaking there with Nadir. While the water levels have risen considerably, the lake is stunningly beautiful. Nadir, who was at the lake a few months back before the rainy season started was astonished at how much the flooding have changed landscape.

Our major challenge taking pictures at the lake is the humidity. Many times the lenses fogs up and we had to ‘warm’ them up before taking pictures. My ‘setup’ was particularly more challenging as I have my camera only in my dry bag. Nadir has his in the Pelican case.

A view of the lake from the jetty early in the morning before we unloaded the kayaks

Nadir on the kayak, with his Pelican case and camera out ready to take pics

The Lake in a way has all the other characteristics of other man-made lakes in Malaysia like Kenyir and Banding. The eeri, wide, open space slowly swallows you up and engulf you with a feeling of awe and astonishment. I would say this is the ‘privilege’ feeling only to those who have spent time on large lakes like this one.

Thanks to the higher than usual water levels, we were able to make some shortcuts, with some navigations around these sort of terrain…amazing!

Note in some of the pictures how the lake water turns from green/ dark to brown. Well, the brown water indicates a river we were paddling up. The river feeds into the lake and its brown water is a result of soil and mud being washed in from the river banks when the rains come pouring down.

Where the river water meets the lake

Dead trees submerged in rising water

Somehow this picture reminds me of the movie LOTR

Great picture opportunities around dead trees

As the water rise, some trees became submerged. On such trees, one can find many insects trapped on the tree branches. Too scared to risk the ‘swim’ across the waters.

A Praying Mantis on a tree branch.

This ‘couple’ took time to get to know each other better I suppose.

Manage to take a snap of these two perching on the water edge

Thanks to the risen waters, we were able to paddle close to the river edge which effectively used to be dry land. There are so many kinds of jungle fruits we say. Including the Chaplong fruit used on the Chaplong gun.

The Chaplong fruit. Have not seen these for some time now

Looks like tomatoes but nothings seem to have eaten them…hence probably poisonous

Nadir working on his GPS to find the way

Nadir taking pictures

Okay…we were told that there are to be no fishing in the Ulu Muda dam. What surprised us was that not only the locals were fishing but they used nets. Lots and lots of nets everywhere! Paddling pass by one of the nets, we can’t help but check to see what kind of fish were caught. This is probably one of the biggest Lampam I have ever seen.

The locals at Ulu Muda use nets to catch fish!

I think our trip to Ulu Muda was simple waesome! The humidity really hindered us from taking more pictures of the lake. This lake is going to be more accessible soon with new roads being paved in to promote the place as a tourist destination. I got to thank Nadir for agreeing to this trip. Ulu Muda lake is certainly worth a re-visit. Nadir…when?

This kayaking trip to Ulu Muda dam is probably more bushcraft inspired than anything else. While I have been trying to learn and trying out bushcrafting, Nadir seems to have it built into his genes. Both of us tried our hands on a few projects, some turned out okay, some better left [...]]]>

Nadir busy bushcrafting

This kayaking trip to Ulu Muda dam is probably more bushcraft inspired than anything else. While I have been trying to learn and trying out bushcrafting, Nadir seems to have it built into his genes. Both of us tried our hands on a few projects, some turned out okay, some better left unsaid.

We dedicated one full day to simply relaxing at the camp and doing all things bushcraft. Nadir came prepared. Among the many things he brought along were pieces of blades called ‘Pisau Malas’ (translated as ‘lazy knives’). He made them by grinding down retired steel saw blades. They really look awesome. His project…to make working handles. He managed to knock one out in less than 30minutes. Not the best looking things but definitely functional.

One of the Pisau Malas which Nadir made the handles for

The Pisau Malas was definitely useful in making small, more intricate control cuts and carvings

Nadir was relentless. I had to admit that I was taking it easy. After working on a parang handle that turned out looking like  d!*k, I decided to just lie down and take a nap. A short nap and by the time I got up, Nadir was already into his wooden spoon.

Nadir drawing the outline of his wooden spoon using charcoal from the fire

Later he carved out a wooden spatula with his Mora and axe. Good job!

Nadir’s spatula

Now I am inspired! I picked up another piece of wood and started carving. After seeing some really nice wood carving on BCUK, I thought I’d try to make one too. I made the below entirely using my Mora!

The parang handle I carved at Ulu Muda

Come at night, we made a fire, hoping to rid the mosquitoes and sand flies that have been feeding on us. It wasn’t easy making the fire with all the rain and dam wood. Once going, Nadir started on his wooden spoon again.

Nadir worked on his wooden spoon right into the night

Progress was slow but definitely satisfying

We put our bushcrafting skills to test by trying to catch fish as well. The thought of making rod, fishing line and bone hooks was mentioned once (before the trip) but reality is we WANT to catch some fish. So we did bring some fishing gear with us. The objective was to try to catch some for feed and put of ‘fish cleaning’ skills to test.

With no artificial lures, we had to dig for earth worms. Surprisingly, it was a breeze looking for those worms compared to other places I have been.

We dug around for earth worms as baits

How did we fare? Alright I suppose. One of them fishes literally drag my rod into the river! So, I was kind of hooked on trying to catch them. Cleaning them became the easy part. I was expecting the ‘task’ to be pushed around between us but obviously we both are more than happy to do it. Somehow I think it has something to do with the idea of constantly putting our Mora into use.

One of the fishes we caught

Driving home from Kedah to Kuala Lumpur after the trip had me thinking about the entire trip in Ulu Muda. I did not feel the pressures associated with other trips that I have been on. I knew Nadir is more than capable of looking after himself  and we both understood the joys of bushcraft. It was a trip like no other and bushcraft made it possible. I wonder if this kayak trip in Ulu Muda is the start of something bigger…Bushmoot Malaysia maybe?

We have been planning for a kayaking trip to Ulu Muda dam in Kedah for months. There were endless correspondence of email between myself and Nadir about logistics, equipment and other planning works. Well, it finally happened. 2 [...]]]>

A trip that took months to plan, the two of us finally paddled the Ulu Muda dam

We have been planning for a kayaking trip to Ulu Muda dam in Kedah for months. There were endless correspondence of email between myself and Nadir about logistics, equipment and other planning works. Well, it finally happened. 2 friends paddling kayaks on a 5 days exploration trip into the Ulu Muda dam.  Nadir by the way is the guy behind what I consider Malaysia’s best outdoor gear retailer. Check out his online shop at Outdoor Dynamics!

What made our trip ‘extra’ special is the fact that this is a rather major expedition for only two persons. Our friends were apprehensive with our plan to paddle the dam as it was the raining season and the area is known for wild animals like elephants, tigers etc. We understood all the risks involved and it is part of the reason why we took our time to plan and ensure that we are geared up (mentally and physically) for the trip.

Well, the two of us paddled Ulu Muda and we came back safely. The place is beautiful and according to Nadir is even more picturesque when the water levels are low. We arrived at the jetty late at night. The drive from Sungai Petani through towns like Baling and Kupang was painstakingly slow. The rain made it even more difficult for us to spot them cows that tend to occupy the roads at night (the paved roads offer warmth). Certain parts of the road after Baling was under repair and that did not help either. We spent the night in one of the huts at the jetty. Only to realize the next morning that we were not the only ones using the hut as shelter that night.

This scorpion obviously found a liking among Nadir’s stuff

With gears packed up and ready to roll, we headed to the jetty. It was only then we realize how much the water have risen due to the recent days of rain. Nadir who visited the dam a few months before with another group was rather shocked to see the water levels.

The dam’s water level has risen to a point where even the trees which used to be on dry land is submerged

We both have hundred of sea kayaking hours and we know the dangers of kayaking. We both agreed way in advance that there will be no compromise in safety what so ever. With our gears all unloaded from Nadir’s monster truck, we started to pack our ladies and ready to start paddling.

What a perfect day to be paddling!

Our target was to try to get up the a river called Labua. Nadir has it marked on his GPS, so I was mostly following him. My GPS was used to track mostly. Some of our gears are redundant, following the principals of ‘what if…’. Nadir reckons the two of us would be able to paddle to our destination in a couple of hours. I left the planning to him so I trusted him enough to follow him.

Yes! Finally I got to test my Lifestraw in Ulu Muda. Thanks for the pic Nadir!

After 4 hours of paddling with stops in between, we finally made it to our campsite. A check on the GPS tells us that we covered a distance close to 15km. Surprisingly it was not as tiring as I have anticipated, probably because it was flat water all the way. But my bum and back definitely felt the ‘stresses’ as soon as I got off the kayak. Age is catching up I guess.

Our kayaking route snapshot on google-earth

Not wanting to waste time, we unpacked our kayaks and carried them a few meters away from the edge of the river (Labua). We used the towing lines to then tie them securely to a big tree. Next on the agenda…campsite.

Our kayaks securely stashed away from the river

It was awesome being able to kayak on a trip like this. Ulu Muda is definitelly suitable for a kayak expedition. We both took loads of pics. Some pics are from Nadir and are watermarked as ‘www.outdoordynamics.com.my’.  Will feature some of the pics later. Below is one of my favorites from Nadir.

One of the many standing dead tree around lake Ulu Muda

Click here to read Part II

See also our maiden paddling trip with the new kayaks at Batu Dam.

NOTE: If you are interested in purchasing Sit On Top kayaks in Malaysia, you can contact the folks at Outdoor Gear Malaysia.

Kenyir Lake (Tasik Kenyir) is THE lake of Malaysia I would say. This man made lake in Malaysia had me going back almost every year since the first time I visited it back in 2005 probably. Since then, I have been back to the lake many times over, fishing, camping or [...]]]>

Lake Kenyir is huge

Kenyir Lake (Tasik Kenyir) is THE lake of Malaysia I would say. This man made lake in Malaysia had me going back almost every year since the first time I visited it back in 2005 probably. Since then, I have been back to the lake many times over, fishing, camping or just plain relaxing. It really is a place to just get away from it all and relax.

This visit is no different. The lake itself looks as if time has stood still. Its beauty is just mesmerizing. John, upon seeing the lake for the first time froze as he soaked up the scenery. “Keong…this place is different. No where close to Lake Temenggor or Lake Bera (L:INK). I know now why you like this place so much”.

Yup, this place is awesome. It is different. Freshwater all around and it’s jungle is pristine. It will make you want to stay and never leave the place (well, it’s the case for me at least). There are many things to do at this lake. Besides its numerous attractions like waterfalls, caves and hilltop islands, this place is a great place for fishing and nature appreciation trips as well.

Kenyir’s island are actually hittops, they emerged after the water has flooded the entire area

Some trees are still standing even after the place has been flooded

There are a few ways to get to Lake Kenyir. Of course driving your own vehicle there would be the best option. Driving will give you the flexibility of just stopping anywhere, whenever you want.

But if you have to take public transport, the nearest town to  Pengkalan Gawi jetty is Kuala Berang. The only buses that goes directly into Pengkalan Gawi jetty (Lake Kenyir’s entry point) as far as I know comes from Kuala Lumpur, Putra bus station near PWTC. You will have to check the bus operator though, trips are on certain days and not frequent.

From other parts of Malaysia, try to make your way to Kuala Berang and from there take a cab. Alternatively, fly into Kuala Terengganu and take a cab in. But from Kuala Terengganu’s airport to Pengkalan Gawi would be more than an hour’s drive, so be prepared to pay for the cab ride.

Boat ride on Lake Kenyir

While making your way there seems like a challenge, it is all worth the effort I guarantee. Kenyir lake is magnificent, charming and irresistible.