I have walked and camped my fair share of jungles but this trip with MYCAT was one of the few rare occasions where a jungle experience is stretched a few notches up. An absolutely satisfying experience with a sigh of relief at the end of it [...]]]>

Hammocks are the way to go in the jungle

I have walked and camped my fair share of jungles but this trip with MYCAT was one of the few rare occasions where a jungle experience is stretched a few notches up. An absolutely satisfying experience with a sigh of relief at the end of it all.

This is real primary jungle. It is an area in the Taman Negara jungle that has neither been logged nor seen much human activity. A place inhabited by flora and fauna of all shapes and sizes. Where humans are probably the aliens and misfits. The sort of place that stretches your comfort zone and tests your ability to mentally overcome challenges. This is the place where once inside, there is no turning back. As exotic and postcard it may look and sound, this is not a place to be taken lightly.

Big towering and magnificent trees

Droppings of our ‘BIG’ friends is a common sight

This caterpillar gave one of us a nasty sting through clothing!

See if you can spot the kungfu master in the picture

There are just no certainties. After days of walking, having a fire not only helps to warm our bodies, dry our clothes but it also helps to lift the human spirit. Hammock camping makes sense due to the lack of flat ground for tents. Even with the scarcity of trees, one can always be creative and build an apartment of hammocks.

When there's lack of suitable trees, think apartment!

Fire is a matter of survival and in this case, it helps to dry our equipment, keep us warm and lift our spirits

My hammock partially setup on uneven ground

The terrain we walked on was mostly hilly terrain. They are not mountains by any means but the fact that it rained during the nights of the first few days made walking difficult. We were slipping down our bums, tumbling down river banks and walking cautiously on tree trunks that links us to the other side of the river bank. Each step we took is a calculated risk. Lower one’s guard and one may find oneself hurt very badly. Having parangs worn at the side of our waists makes such accidents even more dangerous.

It may not seem dangerous but that piece of stick was the only thing keeping us from the deep mud and steep ravine on both sides

Finding a good campsite beside a river is a blessing. It provides ample water for consumption as well as for cleaning up. After days of walking, we are practically drenched in our own sweat. Our sweaty bodies attract a host of insects; particularly sweat bees which can be really annoying. At our river campsite, we took every possible opportunity to clean up. After having worn the same sweaty shirt for days of walking, a well rinsed shirt is very much welcomed, even if it was worn wet. At least it smelled better.

Wee Siong taking the opportunity to rinse clothes in the river

It is a great relief being able to clean-up in the jungle river

Take every opportunity possible to rinse and dry your daily worn clothes

Camping in real primary jungle can be a challenge but not impossible with common sense and mental strength. There may be more seasoned and experienced campers around you but if you know what you are doing and doing it safe, you will be okay. The key to jungle camping, as a mentor of mine used to say is to be humble and respect the things around you. You are after all just a passer by. And as Benjamin Whichcote saying, ” None are so empty as those who are full of themselves.”

Okay, we were literally walking into restricted areas of Taman Negara, inaccessible to the general public. All we had was a map (with some pencil lines drawn on it) and two units of GPS to help guide us. Once inside, we have limited communications to the outside world. 10 minutes in [...]]]>

Large pig mud holes

Okay, we were literally walking into restricted areas of Taman Negara, inaccessible to the general public. All we had was a map (with some pencil lines drawn on it) and two units of GPS to help guide us. Once inside, we have limited communications to the outside world. 10 minutes in and already the jungle starts to reveal itself.

They weren’t kidding when they say we needed parangs for this trip. It soon became obvious that we are moving into an area of the jungle where it has not been ventured in by people for a long time. There are simply no trails at all. The only faint ones that we can identify are probably animal trails and may lead us away from where we are supposed to head to. Constant check on the GPS against the map was necessary to make sure that we are heading towards the right direction.

We had to stop often to compare the map against the gps to make sure we are heading the right direction

The deeper into the jungle we walk in, the darker it gets. This is the first ‘change’ I realize. There was little light on the jungle floor. The ground is covered with all sorts of plant matter, creepers, vines and rattan thorns that make our progress slow and at times extremely painful. We pushed on and on, bit by bit with the Perhilitan officer at the front slashing relentlessly to make a path for the rest of us to come through.

Some wild jungle fruits that has been partially eatan

A beautiful feather we spotted on the ground inside the jungle

Beautiful fruit that is accompanied with some serious thorns!

It wasn’t until a good few hours walk before we finally found the first Taman Negara plate. This is the first indication that we have reached the border. Our jubilation was short lived when we realized that it is the only tree marked. The direction of the border can be anyway!

It was already a long days walk and we were running out of water. We took every opportunity to fill up on water. Even the wines that were cut when making the path through the jungle looks tempting for drinking!

It was a long day, hot and humid. We filled our bottles anywhere we could. Used tablets to make water safe for drinking

Jungle vines is a source of drinking water but unless you know which one, best to stay away

They call the jungle rainforest and water is supposed to be abundant. But finding a clean water source at an area that is suited for camp can be a challenge.  Though the map indicates water sources, streams and even rivers, many have ‘disappeared’, some simply too doubtful (stagnant water) while others simply do not have enough flat land. Our group needed flat land because several of us using tents.

In desperation, we make do with a small stream for the first night. It was a small stream. Abang Mat (Perhilitan) was quick to work the stream by digging and damming it so that we have a pool of water to collect water for cooking and even washing. Whatever flat land was cleared for the tents while the hammock users picked their trees.

The small stream was an awesome relief after not being able to find any other more suitable sites

The first day was a tiring day. Resting in my hammock, I was amazed at how noisy the jungle is. I remembered the night well. It was about 8pm and just as I was about to doze off, a loud single burst of ‘uuung’ when off and this ‘call’ was responded by a similar call from opposite the river where my camp was situated. Seconds later, more such calls rang out in the jungle. They appeared to be frogs and they kept on ‘uuung-ing’ each other for the longest time. I came out of my hammock, reached for a piece of stick and try to disturb the ground, hoping that the frog near my camp would just move away. It did…for a few minutes that is. Soon it was back ‘uuung-ing’ away. Well, nothing much I can do. I lie in my hammock, thanking God for the good and safe journey and slowly drifted into my sleep.

Taman Negara Trailblazer jungle trip…here I come! It was a Wednesday morning and we all gathered at the Gombak LRT station. With all our fully loaded packs, we hopped onto the MYCAT Hilux and headed for Karak highway towards Merapoh. We only stopped for breakfast [...]]]>

On our way to the Merapoh entrance to Taman Negara

Taman Negara Trailblazer jungle trip…here I come! It was a Wednesday morning and we all gathered at the Gombak LRT station. With all our fully loaded packs, we hopped onto the MYCAT Hilux and headed for Karak highway towards Merapoh. We only stopped for breakfast and toilet breaks. Man, the only rep from MYCAT did most of the driving while the rest of us chatted about matters ranging from parangs to blood diamonds (it is a long drive).

By the time we arrived at Taman Negara Merapoh, the four of us had already started to ‘gel’ together. Well, for sure we have differences but like all things in life, we make the best of what’s on the table. Upon checking in and doing away with formalities, we went straight to work. Checking and dispensing gear. Food was a major issue to me personally. The moment I see the 15kg bag of rice and cans of sardines and chicken curry, I knew I am in trouble. Hey…I love food but lugging can food for days isn’t exactly my kind of adventure. But heck, here we are with the goods and I already agree to be ‘flexible’.

Sorting out food for 5 days in the jungle

Now…the plan is to cook for dinner and breakfast only. There is no time to stop and cook lunch, so packets of biscuits etc for lunch on the go is called for. We have Camping Gaz stoves with us. Each of us carried one full canister each. Thankfully, by the time we finish with food, there’s heaps of rice and other bits left behind.

The perhilitan truck that ferried us into the unknown

We were initially informed that our journey begins the following day. But just an hour after finish packing, a Perhilitan officer drives up to our cabin in a truck. We looked blankly at each other, realizing our hope to sleep comfortably in the cabin for the first night no longer exists. I heard a few exchanges of words between Man and the officer and the next thing I know, we were all on the back of the truck on the way to Kuala Yu outpost. Our ‘Trailblazer’ adventure has just gone into hyper mode.

I can feel my heart beating fast as we sat on the back of the (flying) truck. It took us a good 40 minutes to get to the Sg Yu outpost. 1001 things racing through my mind. Did I pack my shoes? Did I leave anything behind? Hope I have all the sardine cans. What on earth is going on??

The truck came to a complete stop right smack in the middle of an oil palm plantation. Alighting from the back of the truck, we were greeted by a suspended bridge over a river that separates this unsightly landscape with the Sg Yu Outpost. A tall structure that stands tall on what looks like a small hill.

A suspended bridge separates the outpost from the oil palm plantation

Looking down the suspended bridge, I see a beautiful river with steep sides on both sides. The river flows out into a arch of pristine jungle with some trees bowing towards the water, as if trying to take a sip of water from the flowing river. This to me is an epitome of what a jungle should look like.

A beautiful river at the side of the outpost

This outpost it seems will be our shelter for the night before the real ‘challenge’ the following day. We took every available moment to do final preparations. Its now or never.

Going through our maps

The structure was built tall to avoid elephants that may pass through the area!

Wee Siong doing final packing and checking on his gear

Nervous? Maybe. Excited? A little bit. Scared? Yes. But I have come this far and I have been longing to do this sort of trip into the ‘off the beaten’ trails of Taman Negara for a long time. Now is my chance.

Some months back, I received an email with an attachment on MYCAT ‘Trailblazer’ project. Being a member of Malaysian Nature Society, I am aware of MYCAT works but have not been able to get involved personally. This particular project seems interesting, with volunteers spending multiple nights in [...]]]>

Visit MyCat website by clicking the picture above

Some months back, I received an email with an attachment on MYCAT ‘Trailblazer’ project. Being a member of Malaysian Nature Society, I am aware of MYCAT works but have not been able to get involved personally. This particular project seems interesting, with volunteers spending multiple nights in the jungle with Perhilitan officers doing border clearing and patrols (though volunteer are not doing the actual partoling itself). But the email indicated that this would be the first trial run for the Trailblazer project. Trial runs usually mean uncertainties and this holds true as the days unfolds.
3 volunteers showed up for the pre-trip briefing two weeks ahead of the actual trip. The MYCAT team was there to brief us on expectations as well as preparations for the trip. After the meeting, few key words kept lingering in my mind, among them ‘be flexible’, ‘super fit’ and ‘cans of sardines’. I imagined myself an adventurer with a blank map with only two ‘X’ marked. Start and end.

So…we are going into an undetermined part of Taman Negara to do park border clearing as well as to keep an eye out for illegal activities. Parang action seems unavoidable, something which I am (happily) up for. We were told to start building up on our stamina…so that we will not ‘suffer’ too much on the actual trip. Last but not least, they also told us all that all pictures taken, GPS readings and any publish material must be screened through to ensure certain aspects of the project is not jeopardized. We even signed forms agreeing to all this. And this write up you are reading has definitely gone through MYCAT’s censorship board.

Plenty of opportunity to see amazing stuff!

Clueless yet willing, I psyched myself for this rare opportunity to volunteer for a MYCAT Trailblazer trial run project at Taman Negara Merapoh…in support of the Malayan Tigers.

I doubt if I can get over the parangs used by the Ibans, jungle food and the long houses in Batang Ai. Just a couple of weeks after the trip and already I am thinking of going back. There is simply too [...]]]>

An Iban elder taking rest from the hot day in the long house

I doubt if I can get over the parangs used by the Ibans, jungle food and the long houses in Batang Ai. Just a couple of weeks after the trip and already I am thinking of going back. There is simply too many things I wanna see, learn and experience still. As brief as this trip may be…I think the group of us ‘visitors’ had a really good time, hosted by these lovely people.

One of the Candong parang from another long house we visited briefly

Okay…I love parangs. Not just any parangs but locally produced, if possible hand made parangs. I love them so much that I have another blog just talking about parang. Click here to find out more.  Meun understands and allows for that small room for my entire collection but some friends thinks it is over the top. My reason is simple. It is a artform that is slowly disappering. The least I can do is to record and promote it.

The parangs carried by our Iban guides on the trip in Batang Ai

To say that I was obsessed with the parangs owned by the Ibans in Batang Ai would probably be an understatement. I have made several trips to various locations in Borneo but this is the first time ever I see so many parangs in one place. The parangs are used for their farming work but there are also the more intricate and ‘old’ parangs. Blades that are obviously passed down through the family…some claimed to have taken lives.

This parang is estimated to be more than 60 years old and it has a small porcelain jar attached to it

Well, I will probably write more about the parang ‘experience’ on my other blog . I kept telling and begging the locals, never trade or sell their old parangs. They should always remain in the family as part of their history and legacy. This is my sincere hope.

To me, parang is part and parcel of the Iban’s way of life. They use it for farming, hunting and almost everything else. To see how they use the parang in the jungle is simply amazing. And it is also with the parang that the Iban guides (while we were visiting Gugu long house) used to working a Sago palm trunk for the infamous Sago grub.

The Iban guide working on the Sago trunk to look for the worms

Having a parang makes harvesting these crawlies so much easier

Vincent was the first one to had a go at them bulging grubs....

Gugu Longhouse is located near to where the longboats were left. There is this strange belonging that I feel as soon as I enter the longhouse grounds. It is a strange feeling and I just can’t point out what exactly. Perhaps it is the atmosphere, perhaps it is the sight of the long house itself. Or perhaps it is this connection that I feel with some of its residents.

I like Gugu long house

Cute buggers...yummy too!

Several piglets...all roaming free at Gugu longhouse. My kind of long house!

We chatted for quite a bit at Gugu long house, since the chief (Mr Siam) is around

There can never be a rush when one is at a long house. Danney told me this earlier but I couldn’t really make sense of it initially. After Mengiling and Gugu, I think I understand what he meant. Seating, sharing some tuak and chatting about the history of the long house, the people, their life, their recent hunt right up to who to vote for in the next general election. It was a lengthy chat…one that is necessary but absolutely impossible for me. Thankfully my friends were there to help.

The jungle experience with the Ibans was fantastic. I think all of my friends had their fair share of adventure as well. Before we head back to the Batang Ai jetty where our van would be waiting to transfer us back to Kuching, we made one last stop at Mengiling longhouse. To bid farewell as well as to thank them for their hospitality. By the time we got to the long house, everyone was around, eager to know how we did in the jungle. The stove in the kitchen started going, aroma of food filled the long house and us visitors took turn visiting the ‘throne’. While all these was going on, our friendly guide Isa continued his round with his bottle of ‘mineral water’.

Friend Jan enjoying some Langkau

Of all the trips I have done to Borneo, Batang Ai is probably the one place that has given me good real taste of Borneo. I am happy but not contended. I will be back to the Iban long houses of Batang Ai.

Thanks to Ming...this is a testament of how much Langkau-Tuak concoction I had for lunch

We were told that there were several waterfalls in and around Batang Ai area. Our campsite was actually half way to one of them. The stream that ran close to our campsite has been exceptionally low for the past few weeks according to our Iban guides. The [...]]]>

We continued our river walk towards the waterfall

We were told that there were several waterfalls in and around Batang Ai area. Our campsite was actually half way to one of them. The stream that ran close to our campsite has been exceptionally low for the past few weeks according to our Iban guides. The morning of our second day in the jungle, we were all pumped up to continue walking to  get to the waterfall.

We were told that the walk will be long and we were also warned that some sections can be rather difficult. The walk itself was indeed a long one but thankfully extremely rewarding and enjoyable. Some areas were a bit tricky but still passable with a little bit of care when moving. At one section of the river, we had to make a choice. Either chance walking on the river bank which was steep rocks or wade through the river. The choice was obvious for some of us.

Vincent wading through the river

Further upstream, there was some commotion among the 2 guides at the front. We caught up with them…beaming with pride, they showed us their catfish which took the bait they left overnight. There was sincere joy in their faces. We were simply over the moon!

Chong with on of the catfish that took the bait

Our Iban guides put out a few catfish lines the night before. If my memory serves me right, we got a fish on every line and there was actually one line that went missing! Guide Chong and Sabang secured the fish back to the river so that we need not carry them along the trek to the waterfall.

The first, lower tier waterfall

We arrived at the first tier waterfall not long after. Well, by all means it is not a magnificent waterfall but it is pristine. Sensing that we are not contended, guide Sabang pointed to us…hey…why not we go explore the upper tier then. It tooks us some scrambling up but not far above the first tier falls, the river opened up to a beautiful fall. According to Sabang, the locals call it Wong Meruntum.

A group photo at Wong Meruntum waterfall, Batang Ai

Wong Meruntum is a nice fall. Not big but it has sort of a cozy feeling to it. There was a brief silence when were were there. It is that moment when veryone seems to be immersed in the beauty of it all. And of course some of us took the opportunity to submerge in the waterfall.

Local Kuching guide Danney Tan enjoying the waterfall

Well, some of us really are happy with the waterfall. Just as we outsiders think that it is time to leave, one of the guide started climbing on the side of the waterfall. Seconds later…he emerged on top of the waterfall, shouting in Iban…’Hey…another waterfall’. Without a moment wasted, we scrambled up the other side (where it is safer) to get to the upper falls. It was a steep climb and the fallen trees made the climb a little harder. Finally…another upper tier, small but with a nice enough pool for a few of us to sink in. It was a fine day indeed.

Guide Sabang very happy to arrive at the upper tier

After spending some time at the waterfall, dipping and taking pictures, we started our way back to camp. Only to stop on a few spots to rest and collect the catfishes. Waterfall, bush tucker and good river trek…what more can one ask for?

Some of the fishes and river crabs caught for dinner

This was my first experience seeing the Ibans bush skills in the jungle. We have walked a good 3 hours to our campsite, along one of the local Iban’s usual hunting grounds. With our packs down on the ground, our guides started [...]]]>

Our Iban guides with the parangs on their waist ready to setup camp

This was my first experience seeing the Ibans bush skills in the jungle. We have walked a good 3 hours to our campsite, along one of the local Iban’s usual hunting grounds. With our packs down on the ground, our guides started to scan the area for a good spot to build shelter and kitchen areas. The chief guide then gathered the rest of the guides…murmurs a few words and they all disappears.

From a distance, we could hear chopping and crashing towering bamboo bowing down to the ground. One by one the guides came back to the camp area with materials to build shelter. Some had logs for fire, bamboo for shelter, Y shaped branches for erecting supports, leaves for cooking and tree vines for cordage. All in a matter of minutes.

Two freshly cut pieces of wood became the pot resting place

Rice cooking got on first

Bamboo of course was the main material used. Guide Sabang expertly cut sections of the bamboo to cook rice and meat inside for our dinner. He then washes them in the stream to rid off the hairy and itchy tiny hairs on the bamboo using a leaf to rub them off.

Guide Sabang preparing bamboo for cooking food

After done chopping wood for fire, guide Noeng makes a wooden spatula for food prep use

While the kitchen was on the way, a few of the guides started to clear a small area to build a raised platform for sleeping. Bamboo and Y shaped wood was fetched for this purpose while guide Ujin harvested some jungle vines to use as cordage. Strangely, when I first say him stripping the bark off the vine, my initial thought was he will be using the bark for cordage. Instead, it is the inner part of the vine that he is after. With the barks stripped, Ujin used a stone to separate the inner fibers.

The guides took little time in what seems like child play to clear the area for shelter building

The jungle shelter in the making

Ujin stripped the outer bark of the vine. It is the inner part that he is after

Strips of vines that Ujin retrieved from the vine

There were a total of 7 outsiders. Myself and Vincent brought our own hammocks and we were already putting up our hammocks as shelter building by the Ibans got on the way. It was an elevated sleeping platform for the visitors. Rather elaborate for a two nights stay but I guess they wanted us to be as comfortable as we can.

None of the Iban guides were sitting around resting. Everyone was busy with something. It was like watching a play. Everyone was doing their own things, all different from the other yet they were in sync in terms of what the final outcome needs to be.

One of the guides tended to the fish and rice cooking in the bamboo

It is true that bamboo has many uses. The Iban knows this very well. From cooking to shelter building, they also prepared us some ‘jungle’ cups. The outer green shell of the bamboo were removed to avoid getting the small hairy hairs into our drinks.

Modern and local style...cups made from bamboo sections

We were given one cup each but there was one particular cup that no one ones and it kept coming around. The guides brought with them a few bottles of what looks like crystal clear water. But this is no ordinary drinking water. It is the famous Langkau. A local favorite brew. I noticed my friend Jan’s face lit up whenever the small ‘cup’ was passed around.

Guide Isa pouring Langkau into the special bamboo cup that kept making its round that evening

It was the first day of our jungle trip in Batang Ai. So far, the experience has been nothing short of amazing. And while we visitors retreated to the comforts of our inflatable mats, sleeping bags and hammocks, we can hear from a distance the chatters of our Iban guide. What are they up to I wonder.

Walking in the jungle with the Ibans of Batang Ai Sarawak is a first for me and many of my friends on this trip. We were walking along a river, most of the time in the river towards a [...]]]>

We stopped a couple of times along the way, the beauty of the jungle is mesmerizing

Walking in the jungle with the Ibans of Batang Ai Sarawak is a first for me and many of my friends on this trip. We were walking along a river, most of the time in the river towards a campsite. Set up camp and on the second day continue with our minimum pack towards a waterfall deep inside the traditional hunting grounds of the Ibans.

One thing obvious I noticed with the Iban guides is how alert and aware they are with the surrounding jungle. Many times they stop to look at animal tracks, half eaten jungle fruits on the jungle floor and even the faint water ripples created by fleeing frogs in the river. There was even an instance where one of the guides showed me how some plants near the river edge has splatters of water on them. He reckons they were made by a deer that came to the stream to drink water. Only an experienced hunter- trekker would know that I suppose. Guide Ujin also spotted this strange looking lizard…just enough time to take a few pictures before it leaped away.

Strange looking jungle creature

The Iban guides have really good knowledge when it comes to spotting food in the jungle. While they prefer to hunt for wild boar, they are also very good at gathering plant food from the jungle. Ujin…a friendly and very knowledgeable guide identified the Lepayong fruits which can be eaten raw as well as for Pansuh (bamboo) cooking. The fruit tastes a bit sour but a welcome ‘perk’ during a long day trek.

The Lempayoing tree and fruits just beside the river

A good 'sour' taste to perk myself for the long day hike

Besides the Lempayong fruits, our guides also took the time to stop and gather vegetables for our meals. They consists of wild ginger stems, bamboo shoots and fern shoots (pucuk paku). It seems that they are able to spot eatable plants almost everywhere they look.

Iban guide Kemeri with harvested bamboo shoots

Iban guide Sabang with fern shoots harvested along the way for the night's dinner

Probably leftovers from previous hunts

And each time we stopped for a break or to collect bush tucker, one of the guides will surely whip out his parang for an instance sharp using a rock from the river. Use or no use, it seems to me that they take every opportunity there is to do something, be it finding food, collect jungle materials and sharpening their blades.

Guide Chong sharpening his parang using one of the rocks from the river

We were told that the hike to the waterfall usually takes the local Ibans a full day (2 way). Well, it took us a good 3 hours just to walk to our first campsite. And with the water level being low, I have a feeling luck was on our side. Judging from the river banks, the water level has dropped at the very least half a meter. If water level was at it’s usual, it would have probably been a more difficult and tedious walk.

Low level river water makes walking much easier

We got to our campsite somewhat close to 4pm that evening. It was a beautiful spot, by the river with ample space for cooking and setting up shelter. The Iban guides wasted no time and went straight into getting the campsite organized.

My aim going jungle camping with the Ibans from the Longhouses of Batang Ai was to experience and learn their jungle/ bushcraft skills. Though most Ibans have adapted to modern style of living, some basic knowledge still exists. The Ibans from the Longhouses in Batang Ai certainly still [...]]]>

Iban guide Sabang preparing his hunting pack

My aim going jungle camping with the Ibans from the Longhouses of Batang Ai was to experience and learn their jungle/ bushcraft skills. Though most Ibans have adapted to modern style of living, some basic knowledge still exists. The Ibans from the Longhouses in Batang Ai certainly still live off the land and this was a good opportunity for me.

From the longhouse, we took a boat ride up river, to one of the small rivers that feed into the dam. There was certainly plenty of supply to carry as we had 12 in our group. 6 visitors and 2 guides/ porters. Most of our food were carried by the Iban guides.

One of the guides with a fully loaded hand made rattan pack

We headed upstream. As the river gets narrower, the water surface was littered with submerged tree stumps. Towards the end of our boat ride, we could see the bottom of the river and the many fishes below. As we were about to reach the part where the boat can’t go anymore, the guide at the front of our boat suddenly leans out on the left with his arm. A few seconds later, we could see him bringing something into the boat. Turns out that he caught a good size Tilapia fish with his bare hands. I asked him how he did it and he said the fish was probably surprised by the boat, felt cornered and did not know what to do. All he had to do was reach in and grab it by the head.

Vincent holding up the tilapia caught by the Iban guide

We finally arrived at the start of our trail. The water level was low, so the guides told us we had to walk that ‘extra mile’. Everything from the boat was unloaded onto land, especially the outboard engines, fuel tanks and oars. They were stashed away on high ground.

Outboard engine taken and stashed on higher ground

Water level too low for the long boat to continue

The walk to the campsite was generally flat, along and inside a small river. Not far from the start of our walking trail, we saw this huge Tualang tree, complete with bee’s nest on it.

The big tualang tree along the trek

A closer zoom at one of the many bee nests on the Tualang tree

At a river fork, we were told that there is another Iban longhouse nearby. It is customary that we visited the longhouse since we will be walking and camping on their ‘area’. The longhouse, called Gugu strikes me as a beautiful, peaceful longhouse. Immediately I knew this would be one of the longhouses I would like to visit again.

Gugu longhouse from a distance

Domesticated pigs welcomed us at the longhouse. They roam freely

Part of the longhouse

Some of us chatting with residents of Gugu longhouse

The chief of Gugu longhouse was out at the farm when we arrived. No wonder the long house felt deserted except for a few elders. I somehow  really like this long house. It has a sense of serenity and peacefulness to it. Well, we had to continue on our journey, so our guide said a few words and told another villager that we will stop by on our way back. On to our jungle campsite we went.

Traveling in an Iban long boat on Batang Ai towards the Menyiling long house marks the beginning of our adventure. The longboats, powered by mere 15hp outboard engines are quite fast and rather ‘flimsy’ to my liking.

There were two long [...]]]>

We spent one night at Menyiling long house, Batang Ai Sarawak before entering the jungle

Traveling in an Iban long boat on Batang Ai towards the Menyiling long house marks the beginning of our adventure. The longboats, powered by mere 15hp outboard engines are quite fast and rather ‘flimsy’ to my liking.

There were two long boats and it did not take long before we could spot the long house. According to our guide Mr Danney Tan, he has been trying to bring guests to this longhouse as it is unique. It is not the typical Iban long house as it is sort of like an adaptation between a Bidayuh and Iban culture (a result of inter marriages). By the time we got off the boats onto the pontoons, we were told to wait for the people of the long house welcome us. It soon became apparent that they have been waiting almost the entire day for our arrival.

The villagers coming down to greet our group

The welcoming party, consisting of a few man and women made their way down to greet us while playing their traditional instruments (gongs and drums). It was an overwhelming feeling and it gets emotional when I was told that I had to lead my group through a short ceremony.

Yours truly representing the group- Pic by Jan

We were led into the long house. This was followed by an Iban warrior dance and more ‘ceremonies’. Among the ceremonies involves food items. A small glass was passed around, filled with what appears to be Tuak. Each of us receives the glass but had to pour its content away into a bowl. Then there was also come food items where each of us had to take some from each plate and placed it on another plate.

A welcome dance by the Ibans of Menyiling long house

Couldn't make out what exactly was on the plate on the right

Plates of long house prepared food which was later consumed

John pouring away the Tuak into a bowl

After all these, an Iban man appeared with a live chicken and he moved it around the food on the blade while speaking out loud in Iban language.

The chicken being used in the ceremony

With all the formal ceremony done, it was chow time. Danney later took out the food stuff we bought from Serian to be shared with the villagers. An outdoor burner got going and we all gathered outside, enjoying our BBQ pork with local brew and good company.

Everyone was involved in the cooking. It was an entire long house event

We all shared the food cooked that evening. Note the parang in the picture

We stayed a night at Menyiling long house in Batang Ai Sarawak that night. The food, local brew and good company made it an enjoyable evening. The following day promised more adventures as we will be camping inside the jungle.