» Lakes of Malaysia

Paddling along Sungai Perak and beyond! Part II

Keong — Sat, 04 Sep 2010 13:17:35 +0000

Day 2 is kayaking/ paddling day!

All is go on second day kayaking on Sungai Perak. After breakfast, there is this busy silence of prepping kayaks & canoe, donning gear and packing on supplies going on. We plan to paddle towards Tasik Raban, Chenderoh and its surrounding areas. Within half an hour after breakfast, we were all in our boats, ready to kayak away!

The place we paddled along the Perak river did not have strong currents. This could probably be due to the fact that further down the river, there is the Chenderoh dam. The smallest and oldest hydro dam in Malaysia.

Jim and son getting the canoe into the river

Soon, we were all paddling down Sungai Perak

It was an excellent day to be paddling. Sungai Perak was particularly peaceful and calm that morning. The shade from the over shadowing rain clouds was much welcomed, despite the prospect of rain. We had water, food and some maps printed from google earth, so we were ready for a day’s paddle.

Along the way, we did a few stops. On islands and river banks as well. Mostly to rest and have a look around. The river is beautiful and so are the lakes there. It reminded us a lot of Lake Kenyir and Lake Banding. Though not as remote as the Pedu Lake paddle I did with Nadir months back, this river has its own charm and uniqueness nevertheless.

Our boats at one of the stops along the river

Myself paddling past some Pandanus- pic by Meun

We paddled a total of about 10km that day. The weather was fine except towards the end of the day when it started to pour. But hey, a pour is better than a hot hot sun. At the end of the day, besides the rain, I’d say this first paddling trip at Sungai River was a real eye opener. So much to do, see and experience here. The river beckons to be explored. And so it shall be…

Kenyir Lake, THE lake of Malaysia…; Part IV of Terengganu road trip

Keong — Sat, 09 May 2009 06:54:51 +0000

Lake Kenyir is huge

Kenyir Lake (Tasik Kenyir) is THE lake of Malaysia I would say. This man made lake in Malaysia had me going back almost every year since the first time I visited it back in 2005 probably. Since then, I have been back to the lake many times over, fishing, camping or just plain relaxing. It really is a place to just get away from it all and relax.

This visit is no different. The lake itself looks as if time has stood still. Its beauty is just mesmerizing. John, upon seeing the lake for the first time froze as he soaked up the scenery. “Keong…this place is different. No where close to Lake Temenggor or Lake Bera (L:INK). I know now why you like this place so much”.

Yup, this place is awesome. It is different. Freshwater all around and it’s jungle is pristine. It will make you want to stay and never leave the place (well, it’s the case for me at least). There are many things to do at this lake. Besides its numerous attractions like waterfalls, caves and hilltop islands, this place is a great place for fishing and nature appreciation trips as well.

Kenyir’s island are actually hittops, they emerged after the water has flooded the entire area

Some trees are still standing even after the place has been flooded

There are a few ways to get to Lake Kenyir. Of course driving your own vehicle there would be the best option. Driving will give you the flexibility of just stopping anywhere, whenever you want.

But if you have to take public transport, the nearest town to Pengkalan Gawi jetty is Kuala Berang. The only buses that goes directly into Pengkalan Gawi jetty (Lake Kenyir’s entry point) as far as I know comes from Kuala Lumpur, Putra bus station near PWTC. You will have to check the bus operator though, trips are on certain days and not frequent.

From other parts of Malaysia, try to make your way to Kuala Berang and from there take a cab. Alternatively, fly into Kuala Terengganu and take a cab in. But from Kuala Terengganu’s airport to Pengkalan Gawi would be more than an hour’s drive, so be prepared to pay for the cab ride.

Boat ride on Lake Kenyir

While making your way there seems like a challenge, it is all worth the effort I guarantee. Kenyir lake is magnificent, charming and irresistible.

The traditional ways of the lake people

Keong — Sat, 31 Jan 2009 22:56:51 +0000

I had the opportunity to witness and experience first hand some of the traditional ways of the Semelai people during one of my recent rainforest adventures. I have always been intrigued by how aborigines (Orang Asal) co-exist with the natural world around me. In fact, one of my dream is to spend weeks with some Orang Asal in some remote places and learn first hand from them the skills to survive and live off the land. Many of my friends did tell me that this dreams is rather easily achievable, but I guess I am not confident with myself enough to take that step.

The Semelai people are friendly and very helpful. Their way of life seems to detach them from the ills of the modern world, namely money. While the dough is useful to them, they seem to be very contended with what they have. They still live in simple houses made from jungle produce. Wooden pillars, tree bark walls and bamboo flooring is cooling and very comfortable. The lack of big scale deforestation has probably continued to supply the Semelais with ample building material.

Only the roof is made of zink, the rest are materials from the jungle

Tree barks are used extensively, especially for the walls of the houses

While TVs and generator sets have made its way into the villager’s house, cooking and eating has somewhat remained an outdoor affair. We stumbled across a mother roasting a corns for her children using open fire.

A Semelai mother preparing meal for her children

Yum…corns roasted over an open fire

A Semelai boy and his sister sharing a roasted corn

I wondered what the Semelai’s daily menu looked like. According to our guide, they do hunt wild animals but they still prefer the freshwater fish from the nearby lake. Fishing and fish traps like Bubu is very used widely.

Tortoise / terrapins are considered a delicacy among the Semelai

Well, I did not get the chance to taste the local delicacy. The closest I got were fishes from the lake (which was really good!). They fishes we caught were small, some tiny even. We were told that some of the fish species grew no bigger than and adult’s two fingers put together. Some on the other hand grew to sizes that can topple a small moving motorized craft. Now, that’s a scary thought.

A beautiful morning by the lake…Part2

Keong — Thu, 22 Jan 2009 12:21:00 +0000

As the morning approaches, I lie in my tent wondering how this natural freshwater lake of Malaysia would be like. I did not get much sleep even though I was dead tired from being on the road for hours the previous day . I remembered waking up several times through the night as I re-adjust my body to the uneven ground below me. It was getting colder and colder and my biggest regret was not bringing a sleeping bag. At around 5am, I took a peek outside, only a few feet of visibility and the entire area was enveloped in a shroud of morning fog. I wanted to head out and start exploring but my aching body was unwilling.

An hour or so later, I forced myself up and went about as the sunlight broke through the horizon. The silence all around was (in a way) very deafening. I could hear the crisp of dried leaves crushing on my feet as I made my way to the jetty. The wooden jetty creaked at almost every step I took as it tries to hold my weight (I am NOT light). I did not want to make too much noise in the morning. Hoping to see some wildlife, maybe some unsuspecting birds or even a wild boar would make my day. Reaching the end of the jetty, I sat down quickly and took in the splendor and serenity of the lake.

This picture do no justice to the lake’s actual beauty

Not long after, John emerged from the comfort of his tent and soon joined me at the jetty. We both sat down, munching on some banana chips, taking in the beautiful silence of the lake as the fog retreats…revealing a sight like none I have ever seen before.

Our tents by the lake

The lake, supposing to cover an area of over 6000 hectares seems small from the jetty. The lake is alive with water foliage giving it a rustic yet lively look. Clumps of green bush forms tiny islands scattered all over the island.

Breakfast by the lake could not have been better. Egg omelet and baked beans with bread. A good friend, simple breakfast and a lake to die for, what else can one asks for?

A natural freshwater lake of Malaysia; a journey back in time…Part1

Keong — Wed, 21 Jan 2009 13:24:00 +0000

Joining two enthusiastic friends, I recently visited a tranquil and almost hypnotic inland natural freshwater lake in the state of Pahang. Unlike the man made Tasik Kenyir in Terengganu, my experience at this natural freshwater lake gave me an insight to how life may have been hundred years ago.

We started our journey in the evening. Nature Guide John drove all the way. It was quite a long drive with several stops along the way to get supplies. We were planning to camp out, so canned sardines and instant Maggi noodles would be the order of the day. By the time we got to the town of Temerloh, the sun has set. It’s still a long way to go…so the journey begins.

Many stalls such as this along the way

Fresh fish, acar and salted fishes

On the way through Termeloh, we passed by some stalls selling local produce, which includes salted fish, acar, some kuih and freshwater fishes like Patin and Tilapia (African Mouth Breeders). The fishes are bred in the cages near the river banks. But…huh…were they pricey. A kilo of Tilapia was going at RM14! Same kind of fish, also from fish cages sold at major shopping centers in Klang valley only costs between RM4.50 to RM7.00 a kilo. Perhaps the fishes at Temerloh are tastier but for double the price in big cities, I’ll give it a pass.

Fish cages along the big river in Termerloh

No way I am paying RM14 a kilo for Tilapias!!

I have not been to this lake. John has visited this place once before and driving at night on this lightless road, surrounded by acres of palm oil estate can really be scary. It was pitch dark and the possibilities of running into animals like wild boars and cows is.

We drove slow and did a number of track backs. Missed some turns and some signboards were obviously missing. The directions we got from some of the locals weren’t all that helpful either. It was always the usual ‘not further down…’ or ‘near the fallen tree’. Somehow, we drove on and on and never seem to get to the place we wanted to nor did we come across a single fallen tree. There were fallen trees all over the place!

It took us close to 3 hours from the town of Temerloh to get to our destination. Our local contact has been waiting patiently for us. The last 10km of driving saw u weaving through narrow semi-paved roads in rubber plantations accompanied by the occasional pushbikes whooshing inches away from our car.

Stem and his son Moi have been expecting us. They are some of the friendliest and nicest souls I have ever met in my entire life. They offered us their bed in the simple wooden hut they call home but we had to decline. We brought tents and supplies…plus depriving them of their comfy bed is definitely not a nice thing to do.

After a bit of searching around, we finally found a suitable camp ground. A clearing near a jetty to the lake. It was already 11pm when we started pitching our tents. Our bodies ache and tire from the long drive but the anticipation for what’s in store the following day had our hearts beating. We can’t wait to see this natural freshwater lake of Malaysia.

A Malaysia lake holiday… Kenyir boat house Part 2; Cooking & hygiene

Keong — Sun, 07 Dec 2008 22:47:00 +0000

There is really not a better Malaysia lake holiday than a Kenyir boat house. Ask any Malaysian what’s important when holidaying and I am quite sure food is one of them. On a boat house, you have control over the food you’ll be eating because you can cook them yourself!

You can prepare and cook your meals in the ‘mini’ kitchen on a boathouse. A typical boat house comes with basic cooking area. Do not expect refrigerators, blenders or ovens though. Expect basic stoves, food preparation table, basic utensils etc. Some of the operators provide food catering as part of their services. Consider this if your group is hopeless in cooking!

Alternatively, you can stock up your own food supply in an ice box and prepare your own food. However, note that most boat crews are local Malay Muslims. When you choose to prepare your own food, you will be required to share your meals with the crew (as a courtesy as well), so make sure your food is acceptable to their religion and belief. If you plan to bring your own beverages (beer, liquor etc), do inform the operators in advance so as not to offend them. However, getting drunk is not only impolite but is also very dangerous when you are floating on big open waters.

Depending on your cooking ability (and loads of creativity), food on a boathouse can be really good. The fresh fish comes from the lake and with some basic ingredients, you and your group can really enjoy some good tasting food.
Toilets are available of course. Then again, toilets are most basic with most waste going back into the lake. A complete recycle circle they say. Most are squatting type but I am sure some of the more ‘flashy’ boathouse would come equipped with seat toilets, water heaters etc.

Water supply for the entire boathouse comes from the lake itself. There will be a water pump that fills up the water tank on top of the boathouse, supplying to all water needs. It is therefore best that one boils the water before drinking.

Yet again, most are very basic, squatting types generally. I have to admit that all the boats that I have been on have the wastes going straight back into the lake.

Night time can be very peaceful and extremely dark. Boat houses come equipped with electric generators. However, most operators do not operate their generators throughout the night. Generators are not only noisy but they pollute the air around. Lights out are usually around 11pm. It is wise to bring your own head torches or at least hand torches, just in case you need to get up in the middle of the night to answer nature calls.

To me, Tasik Kenyir is the ultimate Malaysia lake holiday there is. With good company, fishing, good food and hours on a boathouse enjoying the beautiful lake, what more can one ask for?

Holiday on Lake Kenyir boat house Part 1; A Malaysia lake adventure

Keong — Thu, 04 Dec 2008 11:24:00 +0000

A lake holiday in Tasik Kenyir can really be a wonderful experience. What better way to do it than on a boat house! With all the basic comforts of a home, one can really get use to living on a boat house in a lake surrounded by lush tropical rainforest. I would call it the rainforest accommodation on water.

We packed like tonnes of gear, not too mention people

I manage to dig out some pictures of one of my trips to Kenyir somewhat in 2007. It was a trip organized among a bunch of us from the same company. Almost 10 of us, 4 kayaks, a whole load of food and supplies and a beat-up van to bring us there. Oh… not forgetting the fishing rods as well.

I remembered the van struggling up Karak highway. I have never experienced being in a vehicle at full capacity yet doing like 10km/h. I swore one could actually overtake the van on foot. But after an enduring 9 hours (half asleep) drive on the road, we finally made it to the lake…with the van still in one piece…hooray!

Spirits were high. We were all very excited to get away from the office and be able to do anything but work. All 10 of us, plus the kayaks, gears and other stuff goes on the boat house we chartered with ease. There’s a lot of space to spare actually.

This is the boathouse me and my mates actually hired once. Big and comfortable.

There’s also the engine room, the captain’s bridge and the staff cabins. The captain’s bridge of course is not as high-tech as one would expect. They are rather basics, with the huge wheel, a radio and at times a GPS. Yup, the locals know the lake like the back of their hand and they use landmarks to tell the way. Note that most boat houses do not anchor up and sail at night. It is almost impossible to navigate in the pitch dark. Negotiating floating logs, sandbars and even crossing animals in the blanket of darkness is risky business.

With rates ranging from RM800 to RM1500 per nite depending on the ‘frills’ and little comforts that one can afford. This trip, we took a basic Kenyir boathouse. It has an upper deck which is the sleeping area and it fits all of us just fine..

One open sleeping area!

For hygiene purposes, I would suggest that you bring your own sleeping bag, bed sheet etc. The ‘upper’ deck can be rather hot during the daytime (unless the boat is under a big shade) but temperature can drop rather drastically during the night time. In any case, during the day time you ought to be swimming, fishing, paddling and enjoying yourself. Not sleeping!

Bring your own kayak for a paddle!

To be continued…

Tasik Kenyir boat house; Malaysia lake rainforest accommodation

Keong — Mon, 01 Dec 2008 13:18:00 +0000

A Tasik (Malay language for lake) Kenyir boat house is arguably one of the best ways to explore this huge man-made lake. With an area of over 260km2, one would require a mode of transportation that is self sufficient, comfortable and practical to see the most of the lake. What better way to do it on a Tasik Kenyir boat house.

Some boathouse looks rundown but can be very comfortable inside

I have visited Tasik Kenyir several times. Each time I go there (usually for relaxing and fishing), I will engage one of them boat house. They are not super fancy but enough to make my stay relaxing and enjoyable. Imagine a boat house as a moving caravan home on water. They have all the basics you need. This include toilet, sleeping area, cooking area and some even comes with TV lounge.

The boat houses in Kenyir are mostly modified fishing boats. The boats are extended on each side with cylindrical metal pontoons. This not only increase the flooring space but it also increases the stability of the boat tremendously. The best part is that because the lake is fresh water, the metal pontoons do not rust easily. There are no barnacles growing on it, the most you will see is green moss.

There’s ample space around a boathouse for you to relax and absorb the scenery around

With the pontoons in place, there are now more ‘base’ for to build more space on the boat. Platforms are extended to the sides, back and front portion. What follows is then the upper floor, where the ‘accommodation’ blocks are located.

There are no fixed designs for the boats. I have seen many versions of Tasik Kenyir boat house and they varies, perhaps by the creativity of the builder and also the amount of ‘bells & whistles’ the owner/ financier wants to put in. Some Kenyir boat house comes with all the modern facilities like satellite TV, water heaters and even a karaoke set. It all depends on what one’s liking and budget.

The boat houses are normally accompanied by at least two caretakers. They spend most of their time at the captain’s helm and ensuring that everything is in order. Engines are typically very noisy and being diesel engines, they have this very strong smell.

The boat houses don’t travel very fast thanks to its design drag, weight and possibly the engine capacity as well. This I think is a good thing. Fast moving vessels like speedboats create way too much waves/ ripples that they break and corrode the loose soils at the shore line. Over the years, islands gets smaller and shoreline becomes a steep drop, making it very difficult for anyone (or any animal) to land on.

What I like most about the Tasik Kenyir boat house is its ability to travel to almost any part of the lake. It provides the basics necessities while is still and adapts well to the natural surrounding of the lake. The boat house is so flexible that you can probably move it from point A to point B anytime and with ease. It allows me (and my mates) to choose where and how we wanna spend our time on this beautiful and enchanting lake… away from the nosy neighbors and work. Blissful…

Fishing in Tasik Kenyir; A Malaysia lake adventure

Keong — Wed, 26 Nov 2008 13:58:00 +0000

Tasik Kenyir fishing is one activity you would not want to miss in this huge man made lake. It is a Malaysia lake adventure you would not want to miss.

This group is definitely on a fishing trip with all the smaller boats being tugged along

I have done a few fishing trips to Tasik Kenyir. Me and my mates normally hire a boat house and spend about 3 days 2 nights out on the lake fishing and relaxing.

There are plenty of them fishes in the lake

I am not a serious angler myself but the occasional thrill of reeling in the fish is so very satisfying. It makes the 9 hours road drive and few hundred ringgits spent really worth it. I have caught fishes like Lampam (Puntius schwanenfeldii), Baung (Mystus sp), Sunhok or Ketutu, Sebarau (Hampala macrolepidota) and of course the famous Toman (Channa micropeltes). Of many shapes and sizes, some fishes are however very illusive and difficult to catch. Depsite my multiple fishing trips, I have never once caught the famed Kelah or Malaysian Mahseer (Tor tambroides).

Baits used to fish in Tasik Kenyir varies and at times a matter of preference. Different fish prefers different kind of baits of course. You can use artificial lures to attract fishes like Sebarau and Toman but very unlikely for you to land a Lampam or Baung. If you are not sure about which bait to use, ask the locals there. I have used bread, earth worms, insects, fermented palm seeds (Kelah’s favorite), life frogs and even chicken intestines. Catfish loves that kind of stuff.

Since Tasik Kenyir itself is huge, one starts to wonder where to even drop the line. My experience there (and the local guides) tells me that the fishes are normally found around the shallow waters of the lake. Some parts of the lake is 100 feet or more deep. I really wonder if anything can survive in that depth. Most of the good fishing is nearing to the shores or at the river mouths.

Fishing around shallow waters, especially for Tomans

As for myself, I admit that I am not much of an angler. The fishes I caught back when I was a kid seem to be much bigger than even the ones I see at the wet market. Then again, even the wet market seems so much bigger when I was a small 15 year old. And ever notice how the person next to you seems to be reeling in more (and bigger) fishes than you? Well, that is sort of the ‘norm’ when I go fishing. So, my mates know where exactly to position their rods each time.

Good mate Ben beaming with joy with his catch

Then of course there are moments when you just wonder why the other person have such good luck. I witness a guy pulling in a huge Toman once and from that day on, I reckon I am just not born with the ‘fishing luck’.

Look at the size of this Toman compared to my 25 liters Osprey daypack!