There are some really beautiful and almost undiscovered Orang Asal homes in Perak. Good friend Jan invited me for an exploration trip to a region around near Ipoh to look for a waterfall. I skipped work and went with Jan. It was all worth it. Not only did [...]]]>

Hand woven attap made of palm fronds

There are some really beautiful and almost undiscovered Orang Asal homes in Perak. Good friend Jan invited me for an exploration trip to a region around near Ipoh to look for a waterfall. I skipped work and went with Jan. It was all worth it. Not only did Jan found his waterfall, but I too was equally amazed with the beauty of the people and the jungle there.

The knowledge and skills of the Orang Asal in identifying, selecting, preparing and building the traditional homes is amazing. A dying art, these original people of the land are slowly departing from their traditional ways to embrace modern lifestyle. This village is one of the few that I have seen that still retains parts of their traditional homes.

Some of the Orang Asal homes along the way into the jungle

The jungle homes are built above ground using natural materials and can house quite a number of people. Bamboo in this village seems to be the main material used. They are used to make the walls of the huts, the flooring and some of the attap supporting beams.

After about another hour walk, following a trail lead by our local guide, we come to yet another Orang Asal village. Here, there are some abandoned huts but also nearby a bigger and what seems to be a grander jungle hut is on its way. It is a shame that I could not spend time to see it being built. Would love to document that very much.

A local told us the occupants of this hut has moved out to stay closer to the city

A new hut is being built here

Note the neat lashings used on the hut building

Rattan is commonly used for lashing

Look closely and we noticed that one of the main supporting vertical beams has a plastic tied at it’s end. Our trail guide pointed out to us that the ‘wrapping’ usually means that particular pole is the ‘Tiang Satu’ or ‘Pole No. 1′. Tiang Satu is important because it is the first pole to be erected and it symbolizes many things to the different community. And of course, it comes with a lot of do’s and dons as well. As the main structure in in progress, work is also on the way to see the completion of the natural hand wooven attap made from palm fronds.

This is probably the 'Tiang Satu'

Palm fronds being weaved to make natural attap

This particular hut being built is rather long, easily spacious enough for two families. When it is fully built, it would probably look as nice or perhaps even better than this other Orang Asal jungle home that is located just a few hundred meters away.

A beautifully built jungle hut by the Orang Asal of Perak

One of the best ways to camp in the jungle is by using a hammock with a tarp over. The hammock keeps you off the ground, away from the wetness of the rain and creepy crawlies. Personally, it is by far the single type of shelter that is [...]]]>

Personally, hammock is the best jungle shelter

One of the best ways to camp in the jungle is by using a hammock with a tarp over. The hammock keeps you off the ground, away from the wetness of the rain and creepy crawlies. Personally, it is by far the single type of shelter that is practical and jungle friendly.

The biggest challenge in using the conventional ground tents in the jungle is space. In the dense (natural) tropical jungle of Malaysia, finding a suitable ground space that is big and flat enough for a tent is almost impossible. Every inhabitant in the jungle is always competing for a piece of the ground. Plants grow on every patch of ground available and animals like ants and centipedes swarm the jungle floor for food 24/7.

The hammock approach solves many of the challenges in trying to use a tent in the jungle. All that is needed are two good size tree, strong enough to hold your weight and spaced just right for the length of the hammock. The two trees act as the main ‘posts’ for the hammock and the flysheet that will later go over it. One can even setup this type of shelter at uneven ground and there is no need to chop or clear ground bush unnecessarily.

I use a hammock with a sewn in mosquito net purchased in Thailand some years back. There are many types of hammock designs in the market and like all other outdoor gear, is limited only to our budget and liking. I am used to this one. It is side entry (some underneath!)and the mosquito meshing really keeps the bugs out.

The hammock I use when camping out in the jungle

The mosquito net is raised from the face when sleeping by tying it to a piece of twig

Here are some tips that I have gathered along the nights spent in a hammock.

For a big guy like me, avoid setting the hammock too high off the ground. I once had a cheap rope holding my hammock and the tree. It broke and I almost woke the entire campsite with my ‘ouch’ scream. Set it up not too high and use good webbing! Webbing helps to reduce damage to tree trunks too.

Pull the hammock as taut as you can when setting up. This will allow you to sleep as straight as possible. Some think it is uncomfortable sleeping in a hammock because of the curve but I don’t find it a problem it the hammock is taut when setting up.

Invest in a good flysheet to keep the rain out. Practice setting up the flysheet as it is the only thing above your head that is keeping the rain out.

Tie a piece of cotton string or in my case, it is usually the socks I am wearing on the webbing at both ends of the hammock. What this does is that it helps absorbs and drip down the water flowing thru the webbing from the tree trunk towards the hammock. If you don’t do this, in a downpour, water will sip into your hammock via the webbing.

The socks tied on the webbing absorbs and drips away water running from the tree trunk towards the hammock

And of course, choose your site carefully. This, regardless of what type of shelter you use is really important when choosing a camp site. Look up for possible falling tree trunks, avoid places too near to the water, make sure the campsite is not an elephant trail and no nasty animal nests nearby (wasps, bees etc). Often, trees in the jungle are ‘protected’ by ants which make it their home. Check for biting ants which may end up ‘invading’ your hammock. Even with a net to keep them out, biting ants are a nuisance.

So, if you are looking for a practical way to camp in the jungle, use a hammock!

We arrived at Lake Kenyir through Gua Musang via the ‘bridge to no where’. This tall and magnificent bridge I come to know a number of years ago. That time, the bridge and the some parts of the roads beyond it was still under construction. [...]]]>

People used to camp under the bridge at night time

We arrived at Lake Kenyir through Gua Musang via the ‘bridge to no where’. This tall and magnificent bridge I come to know a number of years ago. That time, the bridge and the some parts of the roads beyond it was still under construction. It was closed to public then and still is (as of February 2009). But heck me and John made it through anyway. The entire road is ready actually. Perhaps the authorities are waiting for a ‘reason’ to open the road, like a big celebration or sort. Maybe…I don’t know.

By the time we got to the bridge, it was already pitched dark. No street lights and we had our eyes strained on the road to make sure we don’t drive into any of the many cows enjoying the heat emitted from the tarred road at night.

Now…just at the side of the road immediately after this infamous bridge, there is a left turn, into a gravel road that leads to a Kenyir floating chalet called Angler’s Rakit. We dropped by that night, had a good meal (on the house by the way) and promised to return the next day to take some pictures of their place. I have stayed at this chalet a couple of times and oh…its beautiful. The peacefulness of the place is unmatched. I wondered whether the monkey they had tied to a leash was still there.

Anyway, me and John camped at Pengkalan Gawi’s campground. It was already around 10pm after we have enjoyed Angler’s Rakit hospitality. We were so hungry I am sure the caretakers had more of sympathy than hospitality on us that evening. I any case, the fried rice and BBQ fish was really good.

The following day, we made sure we headed back to Anglers Rakit to find out more about their ‘upgrades’ Oh…it turns out that the property’s ownership has changed hands. The place has been spruced up, looking spanking nice now.

The place has been upgraded, walkway made safer with barriers

With a new owner, the place has also been undergone name change. Its now known as Kelah Rakit Resort. While the main floating chalet blocks are the same, the place has been refurbished with new furniture, a new floating platform with projector screen and even tents! Oh and I found out that the monkey they used to have is gone now. Seems that the Mr Stripe came down from the jungle and had the poor monkey for lunch when there was no one at the resort. Now that’s a scary thought!

Their trademark aquarium fishes are still there

The resort with a new name

This part of the floating chalet is the staff's quarters

The Kelah Rakit Resort is located about 30 minutes drive from Pengkalan Gawi. There are no shops, petrol stations, even street lights except a wooden shack selling some snacks and food (be prepared to PAY) between the resort and the main jetty. The resort offers mostly packages that include food and board which is probably the way to go. Other services available are of course boat rides and fishing trips. Some of the great attractions nearby is the Tembat Waterfall and the occasional visits from jumbos. Don’t believe me? Go to the resort yourself and see the pictures in the album!

More on the Terengganu road trips Part I and Part II

It wasn’t the rooms, the service and not even the food that impressed me. Rather it is the amount of wildlife I saw during [...]]]> I have stayed in many resorts but this is probably the only Langkawi resort with jungle animals that I have ever stayed in! This resort is really something.

It wasn’t the rooms, the service and not even the food that impressed me. Rather it is the amount of wildlife I saw during my stay in the resort. The animals weren’t in cages. They were roaming around free going about with their usual activities without much care about the people around them.

For a 5 star resort, I would imagine that this place would be sanitized of any animals, let alone wild animals. The first day there, I was out walking and I saw this monitor lizard crossing the road. It didn’t dash off upon seeing me. Instead, it actually allowed me to get just within a few feet to photograph her. The lizard really reminds me of Tioman island where it is also teaming with monitor lizards. For a resort that transports its guests around on minibuses, I am surprised that there is not a single road kill around, especially a monitor lizard

Nothing special I suppose. Out of no where I heard some noises coming from the roof of one of them chalets. I looked up and I was surprised to see a group of Duskie Leaf Monkeys (Trachypithecus obscurus). Also known as the Spectacle leaf Monkey (obviously!), they are more commonly known by the locals as Lotong. They are cute! And best of all, they just got on with whatever they were doing even with me sending bolts of lights at them to take pics.

There are many Duskie Leaf Monkeys on this resort

I later found out that the resort have rather strict rules when it comes to dealing with the jungle animals that makes their property part of their home. There can be no trapping or killing strictly. No wonder the jungle animals of Langkawi flourishes here.

Oh…that’s not all, besides the common and destructive Macaque, I also manage to spot many squirrels and lizards. This resort is like a wildlife sanctuary!
Having seen the Macaques, Langgors, squirrels, lizards and a monitor lizard, I never imagined that this resort would have anything else to offer. Until I saw this perculiar thing clinging to a tree. It was motionless but it just doesn’t seem to be part of the tree.

A closer look and it turns out to be a Flying Lemur (Cynocephalus Variegatus). I was astounded. I have trekked some jungles and here I am face to face with a Flying Lemur in a 5 star resort in Langkawi! And mind you, the resort was operating on almost full capacity most of the time. I stood there staring at it in amazement.

My friend had to pull me away for lunch. During lunch, I spoke to one of the waiters and he said that the resort has not one but a few resident Flying Lemur. What??!! Not one but a few. I thought this guy was just pulling my leg until the final there, just before check out hour, I saw these on two separate coconut trees.

Two Flying Lemur on one coconut tree! A couple perhaps?

In total, I saw 4 different Flying Lemur individuals. 4 individuals on a 5 star resort’s property! What resort is this? Naaa…I am not telling. Suffice to say that it is an expensive 5 star Langkawi hotel and I am not doing free advertisement for them.

You can prepare and cook your [...]]]>

There is really not a better Malaysia lake holiday than a Kenyir boat house. Ask any Malaysian what’s important when holidaying and I am quite sure food is one of them. On a boat house, you have control over the food you’ll be eating because you can cook them yourself!

You can prepare and cook your meals in the ‘mini’ kitchen on a boathouse. A typical boat house comes with basic cooking area. Do not expect refrigerators, blenders or ovens though. Expect basic stoves, food preparation table, basic utensils etc. Some of the operators provide food catering as part of their services. Consider this if your group is hopeless in cooking!

Alternatively, you can stock up your own food supply in an ice box and prepare your own food. However, note that most boat crews are local Malay Muslims. When you choose to prepare your own food, you will be required to share your meals with the crew (as a courtesy as well), so make sure your food is acceptable to their religion and belief. If you plan to bring your own beverages (beer, liquor etc), do inform the operators in advance so as not to offend them. However, getting drunk is not only impolite but is also very dangerous when you are floating on big open waters.

Depending on your cooking ability (and loads of creativity), food on a boathouse can be really good. The fresh fish comes from the lake and with some basic ingredients, you and your group can really enjoy some good tasting food.
Toilets are available of course. Then again, toilets are most basic with most waste going back into the lake. A complete recycle circle they say. Most are squatting type but I am sure some of the more ‘flashy’ boathouse would come equipped with seat toilets, water heaters etc.

Water supply for the entire boathouse comes from the lake itself. There will be a water pump that fills up the water tank on top of the boathouse, supplying to all water needs. It is therefore best that one boils the water before drinking.

Yet again, most are very basic, squatting types generally. I have to admit that all the boats that I have been on have the wastes going straight back into the lake.

Night time can be very peaceful and extremely dark. Boat houses come equipped with electric generators. However, most operators do not operate their generators throughout the night. Generators are not only noisy but they pollute the air around. Lights out are usually around 11pm. It is wise to bring your own head torches or at least hand torches, just in case you need to get up in the middle of the night to answer nature calls.

To me, Tasik Kenyir is the ultimate Malaysia lake holiday there is. With good company, fishing, good food and hours on a boathouse enjoying the beautiful lake, what more can one ask for?

This group is definitely on a fishing trip with all the smaller boats being tugged along

I have done a few [...]]]> Tasik Kenyir fishing is one activity you would not want to miss in this huge man made lake. It is a Malaysia lake adventure you would not want to miss.

This group is definitely on a fishing trip with all the smaller boats being tugged along

I have done a few fishing trips to Tasik Kenyir. Me and my mates normally hire a boat house and spend about 3 days 2 nights out on the lake fishing and relaxing.

There are plenty of them fishes in the lake

I am not a serious angler myself but the occasional thrill of reeling in the fish is so very satisfying. It makes the 9 hours road drive and few hundred ringgits spent really worth it. I have caught fishes like Lampam (Puntius schwanenfeldii), Baung (Mystus sp), Sunhok or Ketutu, Sebarau (Hampala macrolepidota) and of course the famous Toman (Channa micropeltes). Of many shapes and sizes, some fishes are however very illusive and difficult to catch. Depsite my multiple fishing trips, I have never once caught the famed Kelah or Malaysian Mahseer (Tor tambroides).

Baits used to fish in Tasik Kenyir varies and at times a matter of preference. Different fish prefers different kind of baits of course. You can use artificial lures to attract fishes like Sebarau and Toman but very unlikely for you to land a Lampam or Baung. If you are not sure about which bait to use, ask the locals there. I have used bread, earth worms, insects, fermented palm seeds (Kelah’s favorite), life frogs and even chicken intestines. Catfish loves that kind of stuff.

Since Tasik Kenyir itself is huge, one starts to wonder where to even drop the line. My experience there (and the local guides) tells me that the fishes are normally found around the shallow waters of the lake. Some parts of the lake is 100 feet or more deep. I really wonder if anything can survive in that depth. Most of the good fishing is nearing to the shores or at the river mouths.

Fishing around shallow waters, especially for Tomans

As for myself, I admit that I am not much of an angler. The fishes I caught back when I was a kid seem to be much bigger than even the ones I see at the wet market. Then again, even the wet market seems so much bigger when I was a small 15 year old. And ever notice how the person next to you seems to be reeling in more (and bigger) fishes than you? Well, that is sort of the ‘norm’ when I go fishing. So, my mates know where exactly to position their rods each time.

Good mate Ben beaming with joy with his catch

Then of course there are moments when you just wonder why the other person have such good luck. I witness a guy pulling in a huge Toman once and from that day on, I reckon I am just not born with the ‘fishing luck’.

Look at the size of this Toman compared to my 25 liters Osprey daypack!

While the Kota Tinggi waterfall itself is the main attraction at [...]]]> The Kota Tinggi Waterfall Resort is located in the southern peninsula state of Johor. A mere 16km (north-west) from Kota Tinggi and about 60km from Johor Bahru, it is no wonder that this resort is popular among locals and Singaporeans alike.

While the Kota Tinggi waterfall itself is the main attraction at this resort, one can help but notice the presence of ‘Sunway Lagoon theme park’ here. The waterfall and part of its downstream river has been turned into a water park facility complete with artificial water slides.

This reminds me of Sunway Lagoon theme park!

It is no wonder that this resort is getting around 300 visitors per day on a typical weekend. Holiday makers throng this place. Besides the water activities, there are also other facilities built to cater to visitor’s needs. I saw a squash court, a swimming pool, a big hall, a big canteen, rows of stalls and picnic tables.

As for accommodation, I was informed that the Kota Tinggi resort offers accommodation from the basic camping ground to the cozier hotel type rooms

The camping ground

Different types of accommodation facilities to suit different needs

Ample parking space, nice accommodation blocks, a naturally beautiful waterfall complete with water slides, this Kota Tinggi Waterfall resort looks very well maintained operated. The rivers are clean from rubbish and fishes can be seen in deeper pools, I would say that this place is well run and managed despite its location in the midst of the Malaysian jungle.

Do I think it is worth visiting? I would say yes but not on weekends with 300 people around!
Do I want to stay there overnite? Nope…I will take the bush anytime.