This was my first experience seeing the Ibans bush skills in the jungle. We have walked a good 3 hours to our campsite, along one of the local Iban’s usual hunting grounds. With our packs down on the ground, our guides started [...]]]>

Our Iban guides with the parangs on their waist ready to setup camp

This was my first experience seeing the Ibans bush skills in the jungle. We have walked a good 3 hours to our campsite, along one of the local Iban’s usual hunting grounds. With our packs down on the ground, our guides started to scan the area for a good spot to build shelter and kitchen areas. The chief guide then gathered the rest of the guides…murmurs a few words and they all disappears.

From a distance, we could hear chopping and crashing towering bamboo bowing down to the ground. One by one the guides came back to the camp area with materials to build shelter. Some had logs for fire, bamboo for shelter, Y shaped branches for erecting supports, leaves for cooking and tree vines for cordage. All in a matter of minutes.

Two freshly cut pieces of wood became the pot resting place

Rice cooking got on first

Bamboo of course was the main material used. Guide Sabang expertly cut sections of the bamboo to cook rice and meat inside for our dinner. He then washes them in the stream to rid off the hairy and itchy tiny hairs on the bamboo using a leaf to rub them off.

Guide Sabang preparing bamboo for cooking food

After done chopping wood for fire, guide Noeng makes a wooden spatula for food prep use

While the kitchen was on the way, a few of the guides started to clear a small area to build a raised platform for sleeping. Bamboo and Y shaped wood was fetched for this purpose while guide Ujin harvested some jungle vines to use as cordage. Strangely, when I first say him stripping the bark off the vine, my initial thought was he will be using the bark for cordage. Instead, it is the inner part of the vine that he is after. With the barks stripped, Ujin used a stone to separate the inner fibers.

The guides took little time in what seems like child play to clear the area for shelter building

The jungle shelter in the making

Ujin stripped the outer bark of the vine. It is the inner part that he is after

Strips of vines that Ujin retrieved from the vine

There were a total of 7 outsiders. Myself and Vincent brought our own hammocks and we were already putting up our hammocks as shelter building by the Ibans got on the way. It was an elevated sleeping platform for the visitors. Rather elaborate for a two nights stay but I guess they wanted us to be as comfortable as we can.

None of the Iban guides were sitting around resting. Everyone was busy with something. It was like watching a play. Everyone was doing their own things, all different from the other yet they were in sync in terms of what the final outcome needs to be.

One of the guides tended to the fish and rice cooking in the bamboo

It is true that bamboo has many uses. The Iban knows this very well. From cooking to shelter building, they also prepared us some ‘jungle’ cups. The outer green shell of the bamboo were removed to avoid getting the small hairy hairs into our drinks.

Modern and local style...cups made from bamboo sections

We were given one cup each but there was one particular cup that no one ones and it kept coming around. The guides brought with them a few bottles of what looks like crystal clear water. But this is no ordinary drinking water. It is the famous Langkau. A local favorite brew. I noticed my friend Jan’s face lit up whenever the small ‘cup’ was passed around.

Guide Isa pouring Langkau into the special bamboo cup that kept making its round that evening

It was the first day of our jungle trip in Batang Ai. So far, the experience has been nothing short of amazing. And while we visitors retreated to the comforts of our inflatable mats, sleeping bags and hammocks, we can hear from a distance the chatters of our Iban guide. What are they up to I wonder.

Walking in the jungle with the Ibans of Batang Ai Sarawak is a first for me and many of my friends on this trip. We were walking along a river, most of the time in the river towards a [...]]]>

We stopped a couple of times along the way, the beauty of the jungle is mesmerizing

Walking in the jungle with the Ibans of Batang Ai Sarawak is a first for me and many of my friends on this trip. We were walking along a river, most of the time in the river towards a campsite. Set up camp and on the second day continue with our minimum pack towards a waterfall deep inside the traditional hunting grounds of the Ibans.

One thing obvious I noticed with the Iban guides is how alert and aware they are with the surrounding jungle. Many times they stop to look at animal tracks, half eaten jungle fruits on the jungle floor and even the faint water ripples created by fleeing frogs in the river. There was even an instance where one of the guides showed me how some plants near the river edge has splatters of water on them. He reckons they were made by a deer that came to the stream to drink water. Only an experienced hunter- trekker would know that I suppose. Guide Ujin also spotted this strange looking lizard…just enough time to take a few pictures before it leaped away.

Strange looking jungle creature

The Iban guides have really good knowledge when it comes to spotting food in the jungle. While they prefer to hunt for wild boar, they are also very good at gathering plant food from the jungle. Ujin…a friendly and very knowledgeable guide identified the Lepayong fruits which can be eaten raw as well as for Pansuh (bamboo) cooking. The fruit tastes a bit sour but a welcome ‘perk’ during a long day trek.

The Lempayoing tree and fruits just beside the river

A good 'sour' taste to perk myself for the long day hike

Besides the Lempayong fruits, our guides also took the time to stop and gather vegetables for our meals. They consists of wild ginger stems, bamboo shoots and fern shoots (pucuk paku). It seems that they are able to spot eatable plants almost everywhere they look.

Iban guide Kemeri with harvested bamboo shoots

Iban guide Sabang with fern shoots harvested along the way for the night's dinner

Probably leftovers from previous hunts

And each time we stopped for a break or to collect bush tucker, one of the guides will surely whip out his parang for an instance sharp using a rock from the river. Use or no use, it seems to me that they take every opportunity there is to do something, be it finding food, collect jungle materials and sharpening their blades.

Guide Chong sharpening his parang using one of the rocks from the river

We were told that the hike to the waterfall usually takes the local Ibans a full day (2 way). Well, it took us a good 3 hours just to walk to our first campsite. And with the water level being low, I have a feeling luck was on our side. Judging from the river banks, the water level has dropped at the very least half a meter. If water level was at it’s usual, it would have probably been a more difficult and tedious walk.

Low level river water makes walking much easier

We got to our campsite somewhat close to 4pm that evening. It was a beautiful spot, by the river with ample space for cooking and setting up shelter. The Iban guides wasted no time and went straight into getting the campsite organized.

My aim going jungle camping with the Ibans from the Longhouses of Batang Ai was to experience and learn their jungle/ bushcraft skills. Though most Ibans have adapted to modern style of living, some basic knowledge still exists. The Ibans from the Longhouses in Batang Ai certainly still [...]]]>

Iban guide Sabang preparing his hunting pack

My aim going jungle camping with the Ibans from the Longhouses of Batang Ai was to experience and learn their jungle/ bushcraft skills. Though most Ibans have adapted to modern style of living, some basic knowledge still exists. The Ibans from the Longhouses in Batang Ai certainly still live off the land and this was a good opportunity for me.

From the longhouse, we took a boat ride up river, to one of the small rivers that feed into the dam. There was certainly plenty of supply to carry as we had 12 in our group. 6 visitors and 2 guides/ porters. Most of our food were carried by the Iban guides.

One of the guides with a fully loaded hand made rattan pack

We headed upstream. As the river gets narrower, the water surface was littered with submerged tree stumps. Towards the end of our boat ride, we could see the bottom of the river and the many fishes below. As we were about to reach the part where the boat can’t go anymore, the guide at the front of our boat suddenly leans out on the left with his arm. A few seconds later, we could see him bringing something into the boat. Turns out that he caught a good size Tilapia fish with his bare hands. I asked him how he did it and he said the fish was probably surprised by the boat, felt cornered and did not know what to do. All he had to do was reach in and grab it by the head.

Vincent holding up the tilapia caught by the Iban guide

We finally arrived at the start of our trail. The water level was low, so the guides told us we had to walk that ‘extra mile’. Everything from the boat was unloaded onto land, especially the outboard engines, fuel tanks and oars. They were stashed away on high ground.

Outboard engine taken and stashed on higher ground

Water level too low for the long boat to continue

The walk to the campsite was generally flat, along and inside a small river. Not far from the start of our walking trail, we saw this huge Tualang tree, complete with bee’s nest on it.

The big tualang tree along the trek

A closer zoom at one of the many bee nests on the Tualang tree

At a river fork, we were told that there is another Iban longhouse nearby. It is customary that we visited the longhouse since we will be walking and camping on their ‘area’. The longhouse, called Gugu strikes me as a beautiful, peaceful longhouse. Immediately I knew this would be one of the longhouses I would like to visit again.

Gugu longhouse from a distance

Domesticated pigs welcomed us at the longhouse. They roam freely

Part of the longhouse

Some of us chatting with residents of Gugu longhouse

The chief of Gugu longhouse was out at the farm when we arrived. No wonder the long house felt deserted except for a few elders. I somehow  really like this long house. It has a sense of serenity and peacefulness to it. Well, we had to continue on our journey, so our guide said a few words and told another villager that we will stop by on our way back. On to our jungle campsite we went.

I was introduced to a local Bidayuh guide Danney Tan from Kuching somewhat early this year. A few months later, we hatched the idea of going camping with the Ibans from the longhouses of Batang Ai. Yes, I have [...]]]>

My second trip to the longhouses of Batang Ai, this time to experience its jungle

I was introduced to a local Bidayuh guide Danney Tan from Kuching somewhat early this year. A few months later, we hatched the idea of going camping with the Ibans from the longhouses of Batang Ai. Yes, I have visited the longhouses of Batang Ai before but I knew I had to go back there to see myself the bushcraft traditions of this famous tribe of Borneo.

There were 6 of us in the group. A small manageable groups with close friends from various backgrounds. I am very happy that they were able to make it. A trip to Kuching seems a bit strange without an overnight stay at Beds Guesthouse. This cosy, friendly place has since become like our home in Kuching. The following morning was an early start, with a quick stop at Serian market to buy fresh provisions.

The wet market in Serian is a popular place even for tourist, many things to see and eat

The market is a local produce paradise. Literally. There are many things at the market that many of us have never seen before. Then there are things sold that we’d normally prefer to see in the wild.

A Keranji wood bowl and rolls of Terap on sale

(Left) Keluak- a poisonous fruit if not prepared properly before consumption and Siput Gondang (Golden Apple Snails)

Take a guess...

It took us some many hours to travel from Kuching to the Batang Ai Jetty. A hydroelectric dam and a water reservoir, the dam had displaced old Iban villages, with some relocated to areas (out of Batang Ai) nearby while some villagers relocated their long houses to higher grounds. In 1991, the area was gazetted as a national park.

As we got to the jetty, the first thing that strike me was the water level. It has gone down significantly and can be seen by the naked soil above the waterline.

The 'orangy' color of soil exposed above the water line...at least 1.5meter lower than the normal waterline

This trip to Batang Ai was a recee trip for us. We needed to see more of Batang Ai and what it has to offer, and hopefully we can in the future offer trips, or at the very least promote the place to others. A rustic and authentic place with friendly and knowledgeable Ibans.

The villagers of Semban, Sarawak make their own artificial bee hive/ nest from natural materials found in the jungles around them. Placed under their wooden houses and huts, the bees in return provide their ‘landlords’ with honey and hard work pollinating the flowering plants in [...]]]>

It’s a win-win relationship between villagers and bees in Semban

The villagers of Semban, Sarawak make their own artificial bee hive/ nest from natural materials found in the jungles around them. Placed under their wooden houses and huts, the bees in return provide their ‘landlords’ with honey and hard work pollinating the flowering plants in the farm.

This is another version of artificial bee hive hung underneath the house

The bee ‘containers’ can be found hung underneath some shade all around the village. I find it ironic because normally people would prefer these sorts of thing far from their house (in case the bees decide to go on a stinging rampage). But perhaps because honey is hard to come by and because of this, it is only natural that owners wants to keep their precious ‘sweets’ close to them.

Another ‘Bleh teh’ hanging underneath a villager’s house

I saw one of these bee containers in the making when I visited Glen’s vegetable plot early one morning. I was busy listening to him explaining and demonstrating the bamboo mouse trap when my eyes caught a block of hollowed tree trunk seating beside the hut. I was curious.

A ‘Bleh-teh' in the making

Glen is making a ‘Bleh teh’ utilizing a tree trunk. The tree is called ‘Nong’ in Bidayuh language. It’s a rather soft wood type of wood and Glen is in the process of hollowing the block of wood. I did not have the opportunity to see the entire process but only the ‘hollowing’ of the block of wood. What amazes me is that it is done not using any metal tool but just a piece of bamboo. This is the traditional way a ‘Bleh teh’ is made. I wondered for some time why he traditionally they did not just use a metal instrument and the only reason I can think of is because in the olden days, metal is scarce and one would try to do everything with as minimal use of metal as possible.

Glen preparing bamboo which he will then use to hollow the block of ‘Nong’ wood

I will upload a video I took of Glen demonstrating part of the ‘Bel-teh’ man made bee hive soon.

The walk up to Semban village, while painfully slow and tiring for me personally is nevertheless one of the most interesting and rewarding experiences. The trail is a mixture of good jungle, adventure and man’s ability to co-exist with the world around him. It [...]]]>

Part of the trail leading up to Semban village- Pic by Meun

The walk up to Semban village, while painfully slow and tiring for me personally is nevertheless one of the most interesting and rewarding experiences. The trail is a mixture of good jungle, adventure and man’s ability to co-exist with the world around him.
It took our group almost 5 and half hours to arrive at Semban village from the trail head with several stops along the way and a lunch break at a waterfall at Kampung Bojong. Our guide Danny walked much faster than most of us, often leading the way and stopping some meters away to wait for us. As we walked, chatted and marveled at the many things ‘new’ to us.

The bridges along the trail were most interesting. Depending on the width of the area to be crossed as well as flood risks, the bridges range from proper sturdy plank bridges to bamboo bridges hung on two suspended steel wire cables. These hanging bamboo bridges were the scariest for us visitors. I can literally feel my knees wobble and the fact the steel wire cables were anchored to dead trees didn’t help either.

The villagers got together to build/ repair most of the bridges

One of the suspended bamboo bridges- Pic by Meun

Soon, all these bridges will be submerged under water once the dam is completed

The beginning of the trail was relatively easy. It is clear and maintained by the villagers who ply the route almost on a daily basis. Some muddy and slippery walking path has been laid and reinforced with bamboo pieces as well as specially cut logged to help people walk. On certain stretches with steep ledges, the villager’s ingenuity created railings to help keep people safe using just bamboo found in abundance in the area.

The step carved logs really helps

The bamboo steps and hand railings built by the locals

The stops with shade and benches were a definite welcoming sight. With the afternoon sun directly upon us, we took every opportunity to stop and rehydrate ourselves. It is also at these stops that we met some of the locals who are also taking breaks. Some were on their way down with their children while many are making their way up with all sorts of goods, including gas tanks and crates of canned drinks.

A full gas tank making its way up to Semban

Some huts however are more of working sheds. There are several areas we saw been cleared where locals work, especially in harvesting and processing timber for the own use.

A place where locals process timber for use

Planks stacked to dry before use

We stopped for lunch at a waterfall at Kampung Bojong. This according to Danny is the ‘final’ rest before we tackle the ‘stairway to heaven’, a stretch of the trail that is up and up and up. We had a quick lunch and enjoyed a cool dip in the river.

The waterfall offered us a much needed break from the scorching sun

The sun so hot, pieces of river mud rocks literally cracked

Danny’s packed lunch at Bojong waterfall. Awesome stuff

Well, true to Danny’s words, the trail to Semban after the Kg Bojong waterfall break was mostly uphill. Though it was the tougher section of the walk, the trail seems to be much more shaded with trees. I huffed and puffed, many times trying to catch up with Meun and eventually made it to Kampung Semban.

Semban's trail profile according to my GPS

Other posts/ videos on Semban:

• Part I- A visit to Semban, the village above the clouds
• Part II- The hanging bamboo bridges of Semban
• Part III- The long walk up to Semban
• Part IV- The waterfalls at Semban
• Part V1- The Bidayuh’s traditional cutting tools
• Part V2- The kitchen and bamboo blades of the Bidayuhs in Semban
• Part VI- Traditional bamboo smoking pipe and great food
• Part VII- Sunrise and morning walk around Semban
• Part VIII- Old tools used by the Bidayuhs in Semban
• Part IX- Ladies of the rings in Semban
• Video- The bidayuh’s hill paddy
• Video- The home made wooden pack that carries EVERTHING up Semban!
• Video- Bidayuh’s traditional furnace
• Video- Bidayuh’s traditional blades

It was my first time in Miri, Sarawak and I am in transit to join a group on a jungle expedition into the Upper Baram region, right smack in the heart of Borneo. I expected the trip to be super challenging, therefore arriving early for plenty of rest (and food) is [...]]]>

Imperiall Mall in Miri

It was my first time in Miri, Sarawak and I am in transit to join a group on a jungle expedition into the Upper Baram region, right smack in the heart of Borneo. I expected the trip to be super challenging, therefore arriving early for plenty of rest (and food) is in order.

The plan was to have everyone meet at Miri. Prior bookings at a local Miri guesthouse were made for everyone but having arrived two days in advance, I decided to check out a rather new guesthouse that has been getting positive reviews on the internet. It’s a family run place and as it turns out, really reminds me of home.

Clean, friendly folks, a home away from home

I like Dillenia because it has a sense of peace and coziness. Mrs Lee (the owner) is always around to help in whatever way she can and you know it’s a family run place when the owners have a room there and even share their meals with guests. The toilets are probably cleaner than my own house in KL!

Everything else is close to Dellinia guesthouse. The Imperial Mall (shopping) is just a 3 minutes’ walk away. There are a few makan places just downstairs and a pharmacy to get all the first aid supplies for the group just around the corner. Yup, the next time you are in Miri and in need of a cozy place to stay, I’d recommend Dillenia (contact details in picture above).

Miri town is just the town for me. It is not as crazy as KL and yet not too ‘slow’ as well. As usual, I decided to start my ‘tour’ of Miri town by visiting all its market and makan places. There are several markets in Miri, some of the famous ones include the Tamu Muhibbah, Tamu Lama the fish market and the Open market. The markets are all located around the same area, within walking distances and I highly recommend anyone going to really take your time and explore the entire place.

The Miri Open market has an attached makan place-not really 'open' actually

Gas in Miri town are supplied through these type of ‘meters’

The ‘organized’ markets are cool but it is the street market that really caught my eyes. Sellers would just sell their produce at the side of the roads and I personally find the things they sell more interesting.

In the morning, the streets near Tamu Lama offers a glimpse of unusual stuff

This seller sells a variety of mushrooms, stuffs that are totally alien to me

Glutinous rice, hill rice and all sort of other jungle produce available here

Snails for lunch anyone?

This is how Miri-ans wrap their live chickens for sale

All sorts of vegetables, some are definitely from the jungle

On sale was also some pretty horrifying stuff. There is this seller chopping up chunks of wildboar meat. Fine that it is wild boar but all the meat seems to be dunk in what seems to be brackish juice. I asked the seller about it and he says it is a special mixture for a special dish. “Can I take photo?”. Of course not!


Continue reading other parts of this adventure below:

• First time in Miri Town, Sarawak
• Wild durian & Kolok mee at Miri.
• 5 hours on a 4WD into interior off Miri.
• Unique local houses in Sarawak interior.
• Smoked wild boar…nice!
• Loooong hike to look for an elusive waterfall.
• Sarawak river boats and a raging river.
• Jungle vines and rattan used in the jungles of Sarawak.
• Umbut or heart of palm tasting, first experience.
• Harvesting of the umbut by the Penan.
• Malat & Penat; the Penan’s blades.
• Kitchen in a traditional house.
• Video on jungle kitchen & feather stick making.

Click here to read about another rainforest adventure in Semban, Sarawak.